I have a 2002 audi a4. 2 fridays ago the car over heated on rt 46 and smelt like it was on fire. Funny part is the car was FULLY serviced 3 days earlier. cost me 1000 dollars even. I was so excited it felt like a new car. Then im driving and the thing basically blows up! Monday morning they tell me that the water pump went. So they changed the water pump and then timing belt as well as some other belt ( i dont remember the name) Get the car back and it starts sooo much better quieter but im driving it and something doesn't feel right. i have to press the gas all the way to the floor for the car to go somewhere. Same Day my check engine light goes on. Then starts flashing and i remember someone telling me once if your check engine light flashes u need to stop the car and turn it off...so i did and read my manual it says that my cat convertor is broken! Jeeze i need all these problems i bring it sunday night to get fixed they tell me now that its my fuel injectors and some sensors and a coil thats broken. Apprantly nothing thats gonna kill the car. How long does this take?
Clogged fuel injectors?
until your wallet is empty. find another mechanic fast. either that, or get a different car. It sounds like they are taking you for a ride.
Clogged fuel injectors?
sounds to me like you need to dump that car and get another 1. pretty soon you will have enough money in that 1 that you can buy another car.
Friday, September 23, 2011
1992 grand am v-6 I have changed the fuel pump & filter & relay car acts like it is running out fuel runs fine?
running out of fuel but will not idle or stay running. it is pumping pleanty of fuel to injectors. car runs fine when rpm is above idle.
1992 grand am v-6 I have changed the fuel pump %26amp; filter %26amp; relay car acts like it is running out fuel runs fine?
Replace the TPS sensor Or have the mass air valve checked
1992 grand am v-6 I have changed the fuel pump %26amp; filter %26amp; relay car acts like it is running out fuel runs fine?
I would check for a vacuum leak or a bad sensor, is your check engine light on?
I just fixed a problem like this on a friends car. It was leaking intake gaskets. The problem is caused because air is sucked into the engine that the sensors don't know about and it screws up the air fuel ratio. Hope this helps.streamreader msdn
1992 grand am v-6 I have changed the fuel pump %26amp; filter %26amp; relay car acts like it is running out fuel runs fine?
Replace the TPS sensor Or have the mass air valve checked
1992 grand am v-6 I have changed the fuel pump %26amp; filter %26amp; relay car acts like it is running out fuel runs fine?
I would check for a vacuum leak or a bad sensor, is your check engine light on?
I just fixed a problem like this on a friends car. It was leaking intake gaskets. The problem is caused because air is sucked into the engine that the sensors don't know about and it screws up the air fuel ratio. Hope this helps.
I have a 1999 corolla that will not accelerate over 20 miles per hour could it be the fuel injector?
We tried fuel injector cleaners, but they only work temporarily and changed spark plugs and that only helped a little. The engine light goes on and off at will and autozone could not read any codes. Any ideas?
I have a 1999 corolla that will not accelerate over 20 miles per hour could it be the fuel injector?
check if your exhaust is clogged. take your car to a repair shop, you may spend more money while you replacing parts.
possible mass air flow sensor
I have a 1999 corolla that will not accelerate over 20 miles per hour could it be the fuel injector?
sounds like cat converter is plugged up see under car when running if it is glowing or smells like rotton eggs if not or feel exhaust pressure is weak
could be the tranny
take off from the cat- back of exhaust if your speed improved 1 or 2 things you can do 1 replace the cat which wold run about $400 or 2 which might not pass emission test is to gut out the cat , find an exhaust pipe that fits in cat housing and get it welded then put exhaust back together
I have a 1999 corolla that will not accelerate over 20 miles per hour could it be the fuel injector?
check if your exhaust is clogged. take your car to a repair shop, you may spend more money while you replacing parts.
possible mass air flow sensor
I have a 1999 corolla that will not accelerate over 20 miles per hour could it be the fuel injector?
sounds like cat converter is plugged up see under car when running if it is glowing or smells like rotton eggs if not or feel exhaust pressure is weak
could be the tranny
take off from the cat- back of exhaust if your speed improved 1 or 2 things you can do 1 replace the cat which wold run about $400 or 2 which might not pass emission test is to gut out the cat , find an exhaust pipe that fits in cat housing and get it welded then put exhaust back together
Fuel pump pressure test?
Where do I hook up the pressure tester for my 85 monte carlo?
I think I have a fuel pump going bad.. so I was going to test the pressure.
When I drive, my car will sometimes feel like it's losing power.. It used to start dieing out a little when I would drive or let it sit at idle. It doesn't do it all the time which baffles me.
So far I've changed the fuel filter which has made it better but still does it just not as often. I've changed the MAP sensor.. still does it.. Changed my fuel injectors.. still same thing..
It seemed to happen after I put some fuel injector cleaner in it.. So im thinking my fuel filter got clogged causing the fuel pump to work harder..
Any suggestion?
What I really need right now is to figure out where to hook up the pressure tester thanks..
Fuel pump pressure test?
HOOK IT TO THE OUTLET COMING OUT OF THE FUEL PUMP GOING TO YOUR ENGINE. IF YOU TAP OUT THE FUEL IN THE FUEL FILTER ON TO A WHITE PAPER TOWEL,AND SEE IF THERE IS A LOT OF METAL IN IT ...........ITS PROBABLY YOUR FUEL PUMP GOING OUT.............................IF YOU ARE GETING ENOUGH PRESSURE OUT OF THER ,GO TO YOUR FUEL RAIL (IF ITS FUEL INJ) COULD ALSO BE THE FUEL REGULATOR,RARE BUT IT HAPPENS................GOOD LUCK
Fuel pump pressure test?
There is no test port so what you need to do is tap in a t-fiting to the rubber line.
on the fuel rail you will find what resembles a tire valve stem. this is your test point. as for the source of the problem i am at a loss at this point.
your gonna have to hook it up at the fuel filter
I think I have a fuel pump going bad.. so I was going to test the pressure.
When I drive, my car will sometimes feel like it's losing power.. It used to start dieing out a little when I would drive or let it sit at idle. It doesn't do it all the time which baffles me.
So far I've changed the fuel filter which has made it better but still does it just not as often. I've changed the MAP sensor.. still does it.. Changed my fuel injectors.. still same thing..
It seemed to happen after I put some fuel injector cleaner in it.. So im thinking my fuel filter got clogged causing the fuel pump to work harder..
Any suggestion?
What I really need right now is to figure out where to hook up the pressure tester thanks..
Fuel pump pressure test?
HOOK IT TO THE OUTLET COMING OUT OF THE FUEL PUMP GOING TO YOUR ENGINE. IF YOU TAP OUT THE FUEL IN THE FUEL FILTER ON TO A WHITE PAPER TOWEL,AND SEE IF THERE IS A LOT OF METAL IN IT ...........ITS PROBABLY YOUR FUEL PUMP GOING OUT.............................IF YOU ARE GETING ENOUGH PRESSURE OUT OF THER ,GO TO YOUR FUEL RAIL (IF ITS FUEL INJ) COULD ALSO BE THE FUEL REGULATOR,RARE BUT IT HAPPENS................GOOD LUCK
Fuel pump pressure test?
There is no test port so what you need to do is tap in a t-fiting to the rubber line.
on the fuel rail you will find what resembles a tire valve stem. this is your test point. as for the source of the problem i am at a loss at this point.
your gonna have to hook it up at the fuel filter
I need info on why the fuel stops on an olds calais?
already changed the fuel filter, fuel injector, and it's still doing th same thing,,,after 20 minutes of running, and wont turn on till it's cool
I need info on why the fuel stops on an olds calais?
It sounds as if though your fuel line is vapor locking. I would start by making sure that there are not any places where air is getting into your fuel line. Another problem could be a circuit breaker on the fuel delivery. It may be getting hot (because it is bad) and shutting off then reseting once it is cooled down. Check these two probs.
I need info on why the fuel stops on an olds calais?
you cna try here.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos鈥?/a>
I need info on why the fuel stops on an olds calais?
It sounds as if though your fuel line is vapor locking. I would start by making sure that there are not any places where air is getting into your fuel line. Another problem could be a circuit breaker on the fuel delivery. It may be getting hot (because it is bad) and shutting off then reseting once it is cooled down. Check these two probs.
I need info on why the fuel stops on an olds calais?
you cna try here.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos鈥?/a>
Do Fuel Saving Modules Work?
I just bought a 2003 Kia Sorento. Great car, I practically stole it off the lot, but the mileage sucks. I was looking for accessories on EBay and saw something about a Fuel Saving Module that is guaranteed to save me 5 to 10 mpg by changing the fuel/air injection to a leaner ratio. Do these chips work? Is there a long term detriment to the engine or fuel injectors?
Do Fuel Saving Modules Work?
They most likely don't work. Even if they did, they would starve your engine and you would get sensor errors and the car will be a lot slower. There are some fuel additives that seem to work for me, like STP's Gas Treatment and Fuel System Cleaner. Don't expect a serious gain in fuel efficiency though.
I doubt there is something wrong with the car though, I think they get like 16/19 mpg (city/highway) or so.
Do Fuel Saving Modules Work?
Bad idea. If the engine is running properly, the a/f ratio is about 14.7:1. Leaning this out will cause driveability issues and potential for catastrophic failure. I don't know what you mean by %26quot;sucks%26quot;, but if you feel like the mileage is not where it should be, take the car to a reputable service center and get it checked. There may be a problem, i.e. oxygen sensor, MAF sensor carboned up, etc. Good luck
These gadgets are right up there with snake oil. Don't waste your money!
Your best move is to have the car checked by a competent garage to ensure the engine is operating it peak efficiency. The condition of spark plugs, catalytic converter, oxygen sensor and any fuel and ignition system adjustments and components can have a significant effect on consumption.
Do Fuel Saving Modules Work?
They most likely don't work. Even if they did, they would starve your engine and you would get sensor errors and the car will be a lot slower. There are some fuel additives that seem to work for me, like STP's Gas Treatment and Fuel System Cleaner. Don't expect a serious gain in fuel efficiency though.
I doubt there is something wrong with the car though, I think they get like 16/19 mpg (city/highway) or so.
Do Fuel Saving Modules Work?
Bad idea. If the engine is running properly, the a/f ratio is about 14.7:1. Leaning this out will cause driveability issues and potential for catastrophic failure. I don't know what you mean by %26quot;sucks%26quot;, but if you feel like the mileage is not where it should be, take the car to a reputable service center and get it checked. There may be a problem, i.e. oxygen sensor, MAF sensor carboned up, etc. Good luck
These gadgets are right up there with snake oil. Don't waste your money!
Your best move is to have the car checked by a competent garage to ensure the engine is operating it peak efficiency. The condition of spark plugs, catalytic converter, oxygen sensor and any fuel and ignition system adjustments and components can have a significant effect on consumption.
After changing piston rings, my car doesnt start anymore...suspect fuel problem?
when i sprayed start ya bastard into airbox, the car started..but i do hv good amount of fuel coming into the fuel rail, ive check tat the injectors are spitting out quite decently...but when i removed the hose tat takes the fuel back to the fuel tank, i realise there is no fuel coming out..and when i remove the fuel pressure regulator there was alot of pressure inside. ive changed my fuel pressure regulator but its still the same thing...
After changing piston rings, my car doesnt start anymore...suspect fuel problem?
You just replaced rings without doing anything else? lol
After changing piston rings, my car doesnt start anymore...suspect fuel problem?
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After changing piston rings, my car doesnt start anymore...suspect fuel problem?
You just replaced rings without doing anything else? lol
After changing piston rings, my car doesnt start anymore...suspect fuel problem?
.
Check engine light keeps coming on and smell strong fuel fumes from exhaust?
I have a 1996 toyota camry that i bought 2 months ago. (2.2L engine.)
I had a check engine light come on recently. I took it to Aamco and they ran a diagnostic test for free. They said %26quot;it was misfiring in 6 areas and it needs a major tune up.%26quot; I decided to do it myself and save $$$. I did a good job. I replaced spark plugs, wires, PCV valve, air filter,distributor cab and rotor. I did each spark plug(gapped) and wire one at a time. After job was completed. Check engine light still on. Then changed air filter and PCV valve. Nothing. Then I change distributor cap and rotor. Bingo! The check engine light went off! My car ran great for two weeks. Then today i was driving and the %26quot;check engine light%26quot; comes back on! I smell strong odor of fumes from exhaust pipe. Maybe needs fuel injectors cleaned professionally? I think thats a waste of money. Could it be oxygen sensors? Mass Air flow meter? Fuel filter? Gas cap. I'm tired of wasting my money. I need help please.
Check engine light keeps coming on and smell strong fuel fumes from exhaust?
The strong fuel smell in your exhaust means your misfire problem has not gone away. Since the cap, rotor, plugs and wires were all recently replaced, pull the plugs and examined them. If there is a sign that they are all misfiring, check your cap and rotor, and if needed, see if there is a problem with the coil. If the coil is going bad and is damaging components down the line, get it fixed and then do your tune-up again if needed.. (If your plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc... have been damaged) Get your check engine light scanned for a code again, and make sure you know what you are fixing first. I would be willing to bet that your misfire code came back. Also, if you're getting a lot of fuel down your exhaust, check your O2 sensors as well. Fuel can get on them and they will no longer function properly and you'll have to replace them.
Start with the code, and go from there. Hope this helps.
Check engine light keeps coming on and smell strong fuel fumes from exhaust?
you could have bad catalytic conveter, they create a bad smell, and they turn on the check engine light also
you should also take your car for another diagnostic test to see if anything has changed
your cars ecm monitors several things. when a fault is detected it stores a code and triggers the check engine light. go to local auto parts store such at autozone they will scan for any codes for free. the code (s) will tell you exactly what has failed. more than likely it the oxygen sensor but before you go replacing parts get the scan. it will save you lot of money. i bought a code reader for myself for about $50 and it works great. mine also resets the computer after the fault is corrected. as far as oxygen sensors go my vehicle has three on in each exhaust manifold and one after the cat and an o2 sensor will throw a code. the last one i had to replace threw a code which was for the o2 sensor heater r.b.
Unfortunatelly there is no real way to tell without knowing why the check engine light is on again. Something to check is to make sure all the wires are all the way down on the spark plugs and clicked on. Aftermarket wires have a bad habit of creaping off. Next I would pull the cap and look for some type of carbon tracking inside will prob look like a small lightning bolt. Otherwise there are a lot of places that will scan your car for free. Good luck
Most cat converters do not throw trouble codes by the way because the O2 sensor is before the cat. You are probably running very rich and all of the repair procedures you mentioned will not fix this problem, you probably are misfiring, but this isn't always the spark plugs. If you have a multipoint spark coil (magnavox coil) or seprate coils instead of a distributer then one of your coils could be bad, autozone checks these for free.
I had a check engine light come on recently. I took it to Aamco and they ran a diagnostic test for free. They said %26quot;it was misfiring in 6 areas and it needs a major tune up.%26quot; I decided to do it myself and save $$$. I did a good job. I replaced spark plugs, wires, PCV valve, air filter,distributor cab and rotor. I did each spark plug(gapped) and wire one at a time. After job was completed. Check engine light still on. Then changed air filter and PCV valve. Nothing. Then I change distributor cap and rotor. Bingo! The check engine light went off! My car ran great for two weeks. Then today i was driving and the %26quot;check engine light%26quot; comes back on! I smell strong odor of fumes from exhaust pipe. Maybe needs fuel injectors cleaned professionally? I think thats a waste of money. Could it be oxygen sensors? Mass Air flow meter? Fuel filter? Gas cap. I'm tired of wasting my money. I need help please.
Check engine light keeps coming on and smell strong fuel fumes from exhaust?
The strong fuel smell in your exhaust means your misfire problem has not gone away. Since the cap, rotor, plugs and wires were all recently replaced, pull the plugs and examined them. If there is a sign that they are all misfiring, check your cap and rotor, and if needed, see if there is a problem with the coil. If the coil is going bad and is damaging components down the line, get it fixed and then do your tune-up again if needed.. (If your plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc... have been damaged) Get your check engine light scanned for a code again, and make sure you know what you are fixing first. I would be willing to bet that your misfire code came back. Also, if you're getting a lot of fuel down your exhaust, check your O2 sensors as well. Fuel can get on them and they will no longer function properly and you'll have to replace them.
Start with the code, and go from there. Hope this helps.
Check engine light keeps coming on and smell strong fuel fumes from exhaust?
you could have bad catalytic conveter, they create a bad smell, and they turn on the check engine light also
you should also take your car for another diagnostic test to see if anything has changed
your cars ecm monitors several things. when a fault is detected it stores a code and triggers the check engine light. go to local auto parts store such at autozone they will scan for any codes for free. the code (s) will tell you exactly what has failed. more than likely it the oxygen sensor but before you go replacing parts get the scan. it will save you lot of money. i bought a code reader for myself for about $50 and it works great. mine also resets the computer after the fault is corrected. as far as oxygen sensors go my vehicle has three on in each exhaust manifold and one after the cat and an o2 sensor will throw a code. the last one i had to replace threw a code which was for the o2 sensor heater r.b.
Unfortunatelly there is no real way to tell without knowing why the check engine light is on again. Something to check is to make sure all the wires are all the way down on the spark plugs and clicked on. Aftermarket wires have a bad habit of creaping off. Next I would pull the cap and look for some type of carbon tracking inside will prob look like a small lightning bolt. Otherwise there are a lot of places that will scan your car for free. Good luck
Most cat converters do not throw trouble codes by the way because the O2 sensor is before the cat. You are probably running very rich and all of the repair procedures you mentioned will not fix this problem, you probably are misfiring, but this isn't always the spark plugs. If you have a multipoint spark coil (magnavox coil) or seprate coils instead of a distributer then one of your coils could be bad, autozone checks these for free.
Why won't my 99 Tahoe start after changing the intake manifold gaskets?
I checked all connections, I have spark, I have fuel. It started when I disassembled it, now it cranks and tries to fire but won't stay running and floods. I pulled the plugs and they were soaked. I replaced the plugs, cap, and rotor and same result. Could the fuel injectors have gotten clogged somehow when I cleaned the intake? I basically just cleaned the gasket surface and left the plenum intact. Any suggestions?
Why won't my 99 Tahoe start after changing the intake manifold gaskets?
First, make EXTRA sure you put everything back in the right places...
the only other thing I can think of...
Check the Fuel pressure regulator... if the diaphragm in it is cracked, the fuel will go into the intake manifold throught the vacuum tube. If it is a fuel injected vehicle, follow the fuel line from the manifold until you find a small cylinder. You should see a vacuum tube attached to it. Pull the vacuum tube off and see if you can smell gas in the tube. If yes, then replace the fuel pressure regulator, if not, then go back and look at everything you touched when you did the repair.
I have been in the same situation where later I found something not right or not connected properly like I plugged something in, but it wasn't fully plugged in, etc....
As for the injectors getting clogged, that is a slight possibility, but usually if you disconnected the fuel line and got a little bit of something dirty in the line, it should only clogged up one or 2 injectors... it will start, but will run rough... so I doubt this is it.
The fact that you have spark, really says the problem is with the fuel... ie, maybe you need to check the fuel line connections, fuel pressure regulator, camshaft sensor ( anything that is fuel related) etc...
Why won't my 99 Tahoe start after changing the intake manifold gaskets?
First, make EXTRA sure you put everything back in the right places...
the only other thing I can think of...
Check the Fuel pressure regulator... if the diaphragm in it is cracked, the fuel will go into the intake manifold throught the vacuum tube. If it is a fuel injected vehicle, follow the fuel line from the manifold until you find a small cylinder. You should see a vacuum tube attached to it. Pull the vacuum tube off and see if you can smell gas in the tube. If yes, then replace the fuel pressure regulator, if not, then go back and look at everything you touched when you did the repair.
I have been in the same situation where later I found something not right or not connected properly like I plugged something in, but it wasn't fully plugged in, etc....
As for the injectors getting clogged, that is a slight possibility, but usually if you disconnected the fuel line and got a little bit of something dirty in the line, it should only clogged up one or 2 injectors... it will start, but will run rough... so I doubt this is it.
The fact that you have spark, really says the problem is with the fuel... ie, maybe you need to check the fuel line connections, fuel pressure regulator, camshaft sensor ( anything that is fuel related) etc...
Does anyone have experience in changing the spark plugs on a 2003 ford expedition?
I see that the fuel injection heads are in very close proximity to the spark plugs and was wondering if I can get some advice or a link stating in detail how to go about accomplishing the task. Now I am assuming that the Fuel Injectors get removed. Any advise on the process for replacing the spark plugs would be greatly appreciated. Thanks In Advance. Ben-
Does anyone have experience in changing the spark plugs on a 2003 ford expedition?
The actual process itself is not very difficult to describe. It is can be a very challenging task for someone who is inexperienced, due to the tight confines of this particular application. You DO NOT need to remove the fuel injectors to start with. The ONLY thing you need to remove are the eight COPs (Coil-On-Plugs) to gain access to the spark plugs. To do this, simply disconnect all eight COPs by disconnecting each electrical connector by simply squeezing and pulling gently on the connector to each COP. Next, get your 1/4%26quot; drive ratchet and short extension with either a 7mm or 9/32%26quot; socket and remove the one bolt that secures each COP to the intake manifold. Remove each COP by simply twisting and pulling it out of each spark plug hole, GENTLY. You may want to inspect each COP rubber boot and replace as necessary. Be careful of the one under the fuel rail connection to the fuel supply line. Once this is achieved, simply remove all eight spark plugs using a suitably sized extension and spark plug socket. The four that are on the passenger side may be a little more difficult to access due to the heater hoses being in the way, especially if this vehicle is equipped with rear heat and A/C. Just be careful. One final note. USE ONLY Ford/Motorcraft spark plugs. Aftermarket plugs seem to be known to cause issues on these vehicles. Hope this helps.
Does anyone have experience in changing the spark plugs on a 2003 ford expedition?
No problem at all. You're Very Welcome.
I do not believe the fuel rail has to come off if this is like f 2004 f 250 i did today the coil on plug design requires a 7 mm socket and about 3 hours of frustration. a set of locking extensions and a plug socket with a swivel attached also very reccomendable for the job. good luck oh and i had the luxury of a topside creeper.
Does anyone have experience in changing the spark plugs on a 2003 ford expedition?
The actual process itself is not very difficult to describe. It is can be a very challenging task for someone who is inexperienced, due to the tight confines of this particular application. You DO NOT need to remove the fuel injectors to start with. The ONLY thing you need to remove are the eight COPs (Coil-On-Plugs) to gain access to the spark plugs. To do this, simply disconnect all eight COPs by disconnecting each electrical connector by simply squeezing and pulling gently on the connector to each COP. Next, get your 1/4%26quot; drive ratchet and short extension with either a 7mm or 9/32%26quot; socket and remove the one bolt that secures each COP to the intake manifold. Remove each COP by simply twisting and pulling it out of each spark plug hole, GENTLY. You may want to inspect each COP rubber boot and replace as necessary. Be careful of the one under the fuel rail connection to the fuel supply line. Once this is achieved, simply remove all eight spark plugs using a suitably sized extension and spark plug socket. The four that are on the passenger side may be a little more difficult to access due to the heater hoses being in the way, especially if this vehicle is equipped with rear heat and A/C. Just be careful. One final note. USE ONLY Ford/Motorcraft spark plugs. Aftermarket plugs seem to be known to cause issues on these vehicles. Hope this helps.
Does anyone have experience in changing the spark plugs on a 2003 ford expedition?
No problem at all. You're Very Welcome.
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I do not believe the fuel rail has to come off if this is like f 2004 f 250 i did today the coil on plug design requires a 7 mm socket and about 3 hours of frustration. a set of locking extensions and a plug socket with a swivel attached also very reccomendable for the job. good luck oh and i had the luxury of a topside creeper.
Changing 1985 K5 Blazer from carburetor to throttle body injected?
Changing 1985 K5 Blazer from carburetor to throttle body injected
Question Details: I have a K5 blazer that I am trying to change over from carburetor to throttle body injected. I let someone %26quot;try%26quot; and do this for me and they messed it up really bad. I don't know what to do now. I can' t get it started and no one seems to know anything about it. I have went through three distributors and they keep getting burned up. I have changed the caps and rotors. I have changed spark plugs a lot and they keep filling up with gas. It has a 350 in it. I have grounded the fuel injectors. Any input or help would be very helpful. Also if anyone knows of a book that I can buy, that would be great.
Changing 1985 K5 Blazer from carburetor to throttle body injected?
Unless you are planning to change the wiring then forget it...
Throttle body is fuel injected and is controlled by a computer so you will have to have all the sensors,computer intake,electronic ignition and a whole lot of time and money... My suggestion is to go to WWW.holley.com or to a speed shop and check on the cost of a aftermarket fuel injection system that comes with a completed package to provide you with the same results without all the headaches...
Changing 1985 K5 Blazer from carburetor to throttle body injected?
do you have any idea what you just asked why would you spend that kind of time and money buy an after market carb the logistics of this switch make little to no sense
You are going to need to know if the friend changed the distributor when he changed the fuel injection. I dont know why he would even bother with it, as you could bolt a holley projection throttle injection unit on there and maintain a stock distributor. The spark plugs should also stay stock, but I would get new silicone wires and a new accell ignition coil. Some cars use a resistor and coil trigger wire for the ignition coil, these things need to be correct or you could have issues.
I would not attempt to bolt on a used GM fuel injection assembly that has not been fully tested and warrantied, and you need to study the install directions and wiring schematics carefully for the injection system and ignition system too.
If you have done all these steps which could take a while, and still come up short, I would take it into a reputable mechanic and ask them for a diagnosis on it.
Question Details: I have a K5 blazer that I am trying to change over from carburetor to throttle body injected. I let someone %26quot;try%26quot; and do this for me and they messed it up really bad. I don't know what to do now. I can' t get it started and no one seems to know anything about it. I have went through three distributors and they keep getting burned up. I have changed the caps and rotors. I have changed spark plugs a lot and they keep filling up with gas. It has a 350 in it. I have grounded the fuel injectors. Any input or help would be very helpful. Also if anyone knows of a book that I can buy, that would be great.
Changing 1985 K5 Blazer from carburetor to throttle body injected?
Unless you are planning to change the wiring then forget it...
Throttle body is fuel injected and is controlled by a computer so you will have to have all the sensors,computer intake,electronic ignition and a whole lot of time and money... My suggestion is to go to WWW.holley.com or to a speed shop and check on the cost of a aftermarket fuel injection system that comes with a completed package to provide you with the same results without all the headaches...
Changing 1985 K5 Blazer from carburetor to throttle body injected?
do you have any idea what you just asked why would you spend that kind of time and money buy an after market carb the logistics of this switch make little to no sense
You are going to need to know if the friend changed the distributor when he changed the fuel injection. I dont know why he would even bother with it, as you could bolt a holley projection throttle injection unit on there and maintain a stock distributor. The spark plugs should also stay stock, but I would get new silicone wires and a new accell ignition coil. Some cars use a resistor and coil trigger wire for the ignition coil, these things need to be correct or you could have issues.
I would not attempt to bolt on a used GM fuel injection assembly that has not been fully tested and warrantied, and you need to study the install directions and wiring schematics carefully for the injection system and ignition system too.
If you have done all these steps which could take a while, and still come up short, I would take it into a reputable mechanic and ask them for a diagnosis on it.
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
Hello Everyone,
I have this problem with my car, whenever I go to the gas station and pump fuel into my car, my car has got the hardest time starting. When I am done pumping gas I go to turn the car on and it turns off on me. The way I get it started is as I go to turn on the car I have to press down on the gas pedal while in park for about 10 seconds and quickly change into drive to get my car moving.
This problem does not occur again after it has been turned off. My car starts up normally after turning it on and off randomly. I only have the problem where it wont start after pumping fuel.
Another problem with the car is that my RPM's keep on shifting every ones in a while, it constantly moves from 2000 to 1000 to 1500 to 500 RPM while it is in stall over a period of less than 30 seconds.
I have had my car looked at and got my fuel injectors changed and my oxygen sensor cleaned up due to a build up of carbon. Now I am not sure what to do with it. I may believe that it could be a fuel sensor or something.
If anyone out there has got any idea of how to fix this I would be greatly appreciated, I have dealt with this for the past six months and may believe the problem could get worse.
Thanks
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
i have the same problem. ecxactly the same things happen when i put gas.
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
Make sure the air filter is clean and you don't have a loose clamp on the air hose at the throttle body, or that the throttle body's not loose.
Can I ask how the O2 sensor was cleaned? If it's not responding properly, just replace it. Cleaning it won't work.
I'm betting it's either a throttle position sensor, or MAP (Manifold Pressure) sensor. Try unplugging the sensors and plugging them back in again. That might clear up a bad connection.
Have you ever had the %26quot;Check Engine%26quot; light come on? I'd get a copy of the factory service manual and follow the troubleshooting procedure.vc com and interop
I have this problem with my car, whenever I go to the gas station and pump fuel into my car, my car has got the hardest time starting. When I am done pumping gas I go to turn the car on and it turns off on me. The way I get it started is as I go to turn on the car I have to press down on the gas pedal while in park for about 10 seconds and quickly change into drive to get my car moving.
This problem does not occur again after it has been turned off. My car starts up normally after turning it on and off randomly. I only have the problem where it wont start after pumping fuel.
Another problem with the car is that my RPM's keep on shifting every ones in a while, it constantly moves from 2000 to 1000 to 1500 to 500 RPM while it is in stall over a period of less than 30 seconds.
I have had my car looked at and got my fuel injectors changed and my oxygen sensor cleaned up due to a build up of carbon. Now I am not sure what to do with it. I may believe that it could be a fuel sensor or something.
If anyone out there has got any idea of how to fix this I would be greatly appreciated, I have dealt with this for the past six months and may believe the problem could get worse.
Thanks
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
i have the same problem. ecxactly the same things happen when i put gas.
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
Make sure the air filter is clean and you don't have a loose clamp on the air hose at the throttle body, or that the throttle body's not loose.
Can I ask how the O2 sensor was cleaned? If it's not responding properly, just replace it. Cleaning it won't work.
I'm betting it's either a throttle position sensor, or MAP (Manifold Pressure) sensor. Try unplugging the sensors and plugging them back in again. That might clear up a bad connection.
Have you ever had the %26quot;Check Engine%26quot; light come on? I'd get a copy of the factory service manual and follow the troubleshooting procedure.
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
Hello Everyone,
I have this problem with my car, whenever I go to the gas station and pump fuel into my car, my car has got the hardest time starting. When I am done pumping gas I go to turn the car on and it turns off on me. The way I get it started is as I go to turn on the car I have to press down on the gas pedal while in park for about 10 seconds and quickly change into drive to get my car moving.
This problem does not occur again after it has been turned off. My car starts up normally after turning it on and off randomly. I only have the problem where it wont start after pumping fuel.
Another problem with the car is that my RPM's keep on shifting every ones in a while, it constantly moves from 2000 to 1000 to 1500 to 500 RPM while it is in stall over a period of less than 30 seconds.
I have had my car looked at and got my fuel injectors changed and my oxygen sensor cleaned up due to a build up of carbon. Now I am not sure what to do with it. I may believe that it could be a fuel sensor or something.
If anyone out there has got any idea of how to fix this I would be greatly appreciated, I have dealt with this for the past six months and may believe the problem could get worse.
Thanks
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
have you tried fuel treatment or had the fuel system flush out
I have this problem with my car, whenever I go to the gas station and pump fuel into my car, my car has got the hardest time starting. When I am done pumping gas I go to turn the car on and it turns off on me. The way I get it started is as I go to turn on the car I have to press down on the gas pedal while in park for about 10 seconds and quickly change into drive to get my car moving.
This problem does not occur again after it has been turned off. My car starts up normally after turning it on and off randomly. I only have the problem where it wont start after pumping fuel.
Another problem with the car is that my RPM's keep on shifting every ones in a while, it constantly moves from 2000 to 1000 to 1500 to 500 RPM while it is in stall over a period of less than 30 seconds.
I have had my car looked at and got my fuel injectors changed and my oxygen sensor cleaned up due to a build up of carbon. Now I am not sure what to do with it. I may believe that it could be a fuel sensor or something.
If anyone out there has got any idea of how to fix this I would be greatly appreciated, I have dealt with this for the past six months and may believe the problem could get worse.
Thanks
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
have you tried fuel treatment or had the fuel system flush out
How to change a fuel injector in a 1996 town and country?
i had some guys come over and check it and they checked while i was looking and the 3rd injector (fuel) on the right side doesn't work..they tested for signal using a light thing and the plug does send signal. so that is the only injector not working.
i want to know how to change it
i heard it's preatty easy
im not expert but im not that stupid
i changed plugs and various stuff in cars before
How to change a fuel injector in a 1996 town and country?
have to pull the fuel rail out of the intake manifold remove the clip holding on the injector and do the reverse to install. all while not ruining the o-rings on the injectors. a repair manual will help a ton.
i want to know how to change it
i heard it's preatty easy
im not expert but im not that stupid
i changed plugs and various stuff in cars before
How to change a fuel injector in a 1996 town and country?
have to pull the fuel rail out of the intake manifold remove the clip holding on the injector and do the reverse to install. all while not ruining the o-rings on the injectors. a repair manual will help a ton.
I have fuel going to my engine but it's not getting fuel. I changed the fuel regulator. What next?
The truck is a 1991 F150, inline six. 4.9L
We know it's pumping gas. We know it has gas, but the gas isn't getting to the engine. Maybe fuel injectors? How do I tell? The engine sat for over a year but ran fine before it sat. Please help. I will send you homemade cookies if you help me start this truck!!! (seriously).
I have fuel going to my engine but it's not getting fuel. I changed the fuel regulator. What next?
It may not be injectors. One do you have spark? If not it%26quot;s probably the DIS or TFI module. Next thing is the timing chain. a week ago I bought a Ranger $75 becauce they couldn't get it to run, they put in a new injectors, fuel pumps, DIS module, sparkplugs, wires coils. I put in a $7 timming belt, runs great. If there was a injector problem the computer would tell you, Remember the four things a engine needs Air, Fuel, Spark, and all at the right time. If your truck has 100,000 miles or more it's probably the timing chain.
Sorry gearbox, you are right, the 300 6 has gears but they can still wear. I lost the gear on my distributor at 300K miles once.
kwhotrods's I can't believe I forgot about that one. It's the first thing I check on the roadside. great answer
I have fuel going to my engine but it's not getting fuel. I changed the fuel regulator. What next?
see if your injectors are firing...listen to them with a stetoscope or long screwdriver held to your ear..they should be clicking loudly when turming over
Fuel filter?
A fuel pressure gauge will let you know if the engine is getting enough fuel pressure to run. If it is, then use a test light to see if the injectors have power to one side, and a pulsing ground to the other side of the wiring connector. If all this is good, then the injectors are bad. The fuel in them may have varnished, clogging them up. 1991 is pre dpi, or deposit resistant injectors, and were bad about that. And chocolate chip!!!
If there is no fuel at the injectors check the emergency shut off switch.
step one no timing chain.. has a gear
Ok how far is it getting gas? I'm asking as those trucks went from a low pressure pump in the tank, to a switcher, to a higher pressure on the rail to a fuel filter to the fuel line and then the regulator to go back
if you have any blocks along the way it will stop it... also try starting the truck without any jumping off the starter solenoid if someone is doing that, sometimes it messes them up like that....
But after that, you will need to get a fuel pressure gauge.. in the US I think this is one of the things autozone and other mass stores lend out to customers for a fee .. you will need about 50 psi of fuel pressure at the rail for it to be really healthy.
if you have 50 psi of pressure, then you will need to see if the engien is sparking to see if the ignition module may have gone out.. if yes you have other issues...
But my guess is you have fuel pressure but either not enough or the fuel is so varnished that it won;t start.. and would need to be cleaned to get working again.
the pressure regulator may be gummed up, try some starting fluid and see if the pump will push the fuel thru while the engine is running on the starting fluid, it might take a couple of times
We know it's pumping gas. We know it has gas, but the gas isn't getting to the engine. Maybe fuel injectors? How do I tell? The engine sat for over a year but ran fine before it sat. Please help. I will send you homemade cookies if you help me start this truck!!! (seriously).
I have fuel going to my engine but it's not getting fuel. I changed the fuel regulator. What next?
It may not be injectors. One do you have spark? If not it%26quot;s probably the DIS or TFI module. Next thing is the timing chain. a week ago I bought a Ranger $75 becauce they couldn't get it to run, they put in a new injectors, fuel pumps, DIS module, sparkplugs, wires coils. I put in a $7 timming belt, runs great. If there was a injector problem the computer would tell you, Remember the four things a engine needs Air, Fuel, Spark, and all at the right time. If your truck has 100,000 miles or more it's probably the timing chain.
Sorry gearbox, you are right, the 300 6 has gears but they can still wear. I lost the gear on my distributor at 300K miles once.
kwhotrods's I can't believe I forgot about that one. It's the first thing I check on the roadside. great answer
I have fuel going to my engine but it's not getting fuel. I changed the fuel regulator. What next?
see if your injectors are firing...listen to them with a stetoscope or long screwdriver held to your ear..they should be clicking loudly when turming over
Fuel filter?
A fuel pressure gauge will let you know if the engine is getting enough fuel pressure to run. If it is, then use a test light to see if the injectors have power to one side, and a pulsing ground to the other side of the wiring connector. If all this is good, then the injectors are bad. The fuel in them may have varnished, clogging them up. 1991 is pre dpi, or deposit resistant injectors, and were bad about that. And chocolate chip!!!
If there is no fuel at the injectors check the emergency shut off switch.
step one no timing chain.. has a gear
Ok how far is it getting gas? I'm asking as those trucks went from a low pressure pump in the tank, to a switcher, to a higher pressure on the rail to a fuel filter to the fuel line and then the regulator to go back
if you have any blocks along the way it will stop it... also try starting the truck without any jumping off the starter solenoid if someone is doing that, sometimes it messes them up like that....
But after that, you will need to get a fuel pressure gauge.. in the US I think this is one of the things autozone and other mass stores lend out to customers for a fee .. you will need about 50 psi of fuel pressure at the rail for it to be really healthy.
if you have 50 psi of pressure, then you will need to see if the engien is sparking to see if the ignition module may have gone out.. if yes you have other issues...
But my guess is you have fuel pressure but either not enough or the fuel is so varnished that it won;t start.. and would need to be cleaned to get working again.
the pressure regulator may be gummed up, try some starting fluid and see if the pump will push the fuel thru while the engine is running on the starting fluid, it might take a couple of times
What's the best fuel injector cleaner?
I recently got a car with 30k miles on it and changed the fuel filter and it looked like it had never been changed since a lot of rust poured out of it so I put in lucas injector cleaner in my tank since I already had it but was wondering what is the best brand for that. This other guy mentioned amsoil pi.
What's the best fuel injector cleaner?
I dunno, I've got over 100K miles on 4 cars with the original fuel filters.
What's the best fuel injector cleaner?
As far as the fuel injector cleaner you will prob. hear a lot of people say BG's 44K. It is a GREAT cleaner HOWEVER, it is also EXPENSIVE. When I worked at a Dodge dealer we sold a bottle of 44K for around 28 bucks. You want to use an injector cleaner about every oil change,so Seafoam is a great product and is a 1/3 of the cost of the 44K. Lucas is also a well known brand and i've heard very good things about it. As far as the filters, WIX is the best in my book. I've been selling them for years (as O.E. @ Dodge, and as our NAPA GOLD filter) Look for a NAPA store in your area and see what they carry, most likely it wont be BG but, they do carry Lucas, STP, Seafoam, and NAPA's brand MACS (part number 6660) which is also a great cleaner! Basically anything is good as long as you use it regularly.
What's the best fuel injector cleaner?
I dunno, I've got over 100K miles on 4 cars with the original fuel filters.
What's the best fuel injector cleaner?
As far as the fuel injector cleaner you will prob. hear a lot of people say BG's 44K. It is a GREAT cleaner HOWEVER, it is also EXPENSIVE. When I worked at a Dodge dealer we sold a bottle of 44K for around 28 bucks. You want to use an injector cleaner about every oil change,so Seafoam is a great product and is a 1/3 of the cost of the 44K. Lucas is also a well known brand and i've heard very good things about it. As far as the filters, WIX is the best in my book. I've been selling them for years (as O.E. @ Dodge, and as our NAPA GOLD filter) Look for a NAPA store in your area and see what they carry, most likely it wont be BG but, they do carry Lucas, STP, Seafoam, and NAPA's brand MACS (part number 6660) which is also a great cleaner! Basically anything is good as long as you use it regularly.
Please, Is the fuel tank of Injector engine Car different from Capurator engine Car?
My audi 80 was converted from injector to Capurator and electric fuel pump changed to manual. Now the car is jacking because fuel is not supplying adequately most especially at 120Km/h.......What can I do to fix this problem of jacking.
Please, Is the fuel tank of Injector engine Car different from Capurator engine Car?
the fuel tank had a supply fuel pump in it with injection system.. did you remove it? or just disable the 12 volt pwer to it.. ?
Please, Is the fuel tank of Injector engine Car different from Capurator engine Car?
I'm sorry but DUHHH!
The tank is the same, but why did they switch the electric fuel pump? I would look for a higher flow fuel pump, the tank is just a tank, theres nothing special about it.
Make sure the jacking switch is set to %26quot;jacking off%26quot;
The tank doesn't have anything to do with how the fuel is delivered to the engine, it just holds the fuel.
I have to know, why would you convert FROM fuel injection TO carburated? That is usually seen as a step backwards.Bedding Set good unique name
Please, Is the fuel tank of Injector engine Car different from Capurator engine Car?
the fuel tank had a supply fuel pump in it with injection system.. did you remove it? or just disable the 12 volt pwer to it.. ?
Please, Is the fuel tank of Injector engine Car different from Capurator engine Car?
I'm sorry but DUHHH!
The tank is the same, but why did they switch the electric fuel pump? I would look for a higher flow fuel pump, the tank is just a tank, theres nothing special about it.
Make sure the jacking switch is set to %26quot;jacking off%26quot;
The tank doesn't have anything to do with how the fuel is delivered to the engine, it just holds the fuel.
I have to know, why would you convert FROM fuel injection TO carburated? That is usually seen as a step backwards.
Help with 2000 F350 diesel cutting out, fuel injectors?
We have a 2000 F350. Just yesterday it started cutting out bad and just dieing on us. We changed out the fuel filter and dumped all fuel, now has new fuel and new filter but still cutting out. Ran so-so for about a mile and half then started cutting out again and died couldnt keep started??? What can this be? Need help ASAP! This vehicle is the main source of income in our family. Need it back up and running. The bowl is holding pressure.
Help with 2000 F350 diesel cutting out, fuel injectors?
You need to call the Ford dealer and talk to someone in the service department to see if your particular truck was part of the recall issued in November 2007. There were 1.1 million F-series trucks with diesel engines recalled because of a faulty camshaft position sensor. Just have your VIN number handy when you call.
Help with 2000 F350 diesel cutting out, fuel injectors?
I know is sounds stupid but check your engine oil. Low engine oil will cause poor performance and stalling. Cam sensors are common as said above.
Help with 2000 F350 diesel cutting out, fuel injectors?
You need to call the Ford dealer and talk to someone in the service department to see if your particular truck was part of the recall issued in November 2007. There were 1.1 million F-series trucks with diesel engines recalled because of a faulty camshaft position sensor. Just have your VIN number handy when you call.
Help with 2000 F350 diesel cutting out, fuel injectors?
I know is sounds stupid but check your engine oil. Low engine oil will cause poor performance and stalling. Cam sensors are common as said above.
Is there anyway i can test the fuel injectors on a 1995 4.3 vortec?
i have a 1995 chevy blazer 4.3 vortec that has a misfire on cylinder 3 i changed the plugs wires distributor cap rotor button i know that engine has the spider injection but is there anyway i can find out if it is the injectors without pulling the top off the intake and is there anything else that would cause the misfire the engine idles but not smooth like it should
Is there anyway i can test the fuel injectors on a 1995 4.3 vortec?
Switch the #3 fuel injector with another and see if the misfire changes. If it does, replace the fuel injector.
Is there anyway i can test the fuel injectors on a 1995 4.3 vortec?
There are 2 sides to test here.
1. Test to see if it is getting pulse from the computer. Use a noid light or an LED test light.
2. Test the injector itself.Its less likely you'll be able to do this because you probably don't have a Fuel Injector Tester. Its a small piece of equipment you hook up to the injector, and then it will pulse the injector a certain number of times and you watch the fuel pressure to verify that it is operating properly.
Is there anyway i can test the fuel injectors on a 1995 4.3 vortec?
Switch the #3 fuel injector with another and see if the misfire changes. If it does, replace the fuel injector.
Is there anyway i can test the fuel injectors on a 1995 4.3 vortec?
There are 2 sides to test here.
1. Test to see if it is getting pulse from the computer. Use a noid light or an LED test light.
2. Test the injector itself.Its less likely you'll be able to do this because you probably don't have a Fuel Injector Tester. Its a small piece of equipment you hook up to the injector, and then it will pulse the injector a certain number of times and you watch the fuel pressure to verify that it is operating properly.
What are some simple ways to save gas -better gas mileage?
I have heard several ways what do you have?
Waxing your car -aerodynamics
oil change
fuel injector cleaning
Air filter
tire pressure
65mph or slower
What are some simple ways to save gas -better gas mileage?
There are few thing you can do to save (or maximize) gas MPG. First get a tune-up.
(1) spark plugs
(2) spark plug wires
(3) distributors, coil, rotors (if you have them).
(4) new air filter
(5) PCV
(6) correct tire pressure
(7) clear the trunk of useless heavy items
(8) spray clean MAF sensor.
======
Forget all those %26quot;SAVE GAS%26quot; scams. This was on NBC morning TV show. The difference is as much as 38% (their claim). There are very simple rules to save gas:
(1) drive slow - not too much past 55
(2) accelerate slowly
(3) don't brake unnecessarily
(4) use cruise control - whenever it is safe to do so.
Don't coast - it is NOT safe and it does NOT save gas.
The above really works. Using those simple rules I was able to drive from Boston to NYC (210.5 miles) on just 5.112 gallon (94 Civic). That's 41 MPG (94 Civic 187K miles). Actually I was speeding at 72 MPH so I could do even better at 55.
Simple as that.
Good Luck...
What are some simple ways to save gas -better gas mileage?
I read somewhere that you should drive with the windows closed for better aerodynamics.
And avoid drive-throughs, and idling in general.
I heard on the news that you should fill your gas tank very slowly...gas vaporizes easily, so you get the tank more full if you fill it slowly. Also, fill tank when it is cooler (evening) for the same reason...you get more for less, even if it is a small amount. At these prices, every little thing helps.
Gee Lover if there was a gas converter on your car just imagine how much more you can save -
NO , as you may yhink I work for one of these mobs , but I DO NOT - I am an Aussie who has seen it work
stay home
Waxing your car -aerodynamics
oil change
fuel injector cleaning
Air filter
tire pressure
65mph or slower
What are some simple ways to save gas -better gas mileage?
There are few thing you can do to save (or maximize) gas MPG. First get a tune-up.
(1) spark plugs
(2) spark plug wires
(3) distributors, coil, rotors (if you have them).
(4) new air filter
(5) PCV
(6) correct tire pressure
(7) clear the trunk of useless heavy items
(8) spray clean MAF sensor.
======
Forget all those %26quot;SAVE GAS%26quot; scams. This was on NBC morning TV show. The difference is as much as 38% (their claim). There are very simple rules to save gas:
(1) drive slow - not too much past 55
(2) accelerate slowly
(3) don't brake unnecessarily
(4) use cruise control - whenever it is safe to do so.
Don't coast - it is NOT safe and it does NOT save gas.
The above really works. Using those simple rules I was able to drive from Boston to NYC (210.5 miles) on just 5.112 gallon (94 Civic). That's 41 MPG (94 Civic 187K miles). Actually I was speeding at 72 MPH so I could do even better at 55.
Simple as that.
Good Luck...
What are some simple ways to save gas -better gas mileage?
I read somewhere that you should drive with the windows closed for better aerodynamics.
And avoid drive-throughs, and idling in general.
I heard on the news that you should fill your gas tank very slowly...gas vaporizes easily, so you get the tank more full if you fill it slowly. Also, fill tank when it is cooler (evening) for the same reason...you get more for less, even if it is a small amount. At these prices, every little thing helps.
Gee Lover if there was a gas converter on your car just imagine how much more you can save -
NO , as you may yhink I work for one of these mobs , but I DO NOT - I am an Aussie who has seen it work
stay home
Is the fuel pump on a Toyota 22 r-e pickup supposed to only run when the starter is cranking?
I have changed the fuel pump and checked that there is fire going into injectors. I have also changed plugs, wires and fuses and it will run when gas is poured into carbuerator but truck still won't start. Any ideas?
Is the fuel pump on a Toyota 22 r-e pickup supposed to only run when the starter is cranking?
First of all, 22RE is fuel injected. 22R is carbed. Which one do you have??? If it is EFI (22RE), the fuel pump will only turn on for a few seconds when the key is turned on, then when you crank it and it starts it will stay running. Keep in mind, the fuel pump will NOT turn on if there is never adequate oil pressure, so also check your oil level.
If it is carbed (22R), the fuel pump only runs when the engine is spinning at any speed because it is run by the motor.
Hope this helps.
Is the fuel pump on a Toyota 22 r-e pickup supposed to only run when the starter is cranking?
No....
The fuel pump runs all the time. It's what transfers fuel to your engine. So if it's off, no fuel is going anywhere.
I mostly agree with nn2004. I would however check the plugs to see if they're getting wet. Did you change the fuel pump yourself? When you turn the key on, you should have a buddy listening for the fuel pump and see if they can hear the pump running for a few seconds. Then it will shut off. You might have left out a step if this isn't happening/
Is the fuel pump on a Toyota 22 r-e pickup supposed to only run when the starter is cranking?
First of all, 22RE is fuel injected. 22R is carbed. Which one do you have??? If it is EFI (22RE), the fuel pump will only turn on for a few seconds when the key is turned on, then when you crank it and it starts it will stay running. Keep in mind, the fuel pump will NOT turn on if there is never adequate oil pressure, so also check your oil level.
If it is carbed (22R), the fuel pump only runs when the engine is spinning at any speed because it is run by the motor.
Hope this helps.
Is the fuel pump on a Toyota 22 r-e pickup supposed to only run when the starter is cranking?
No....
The fuel pump runs all the time. It's what transfers fuel to your engine. So if it's off, no fuel is going anywhere.
I mostly agree with nn2004. I would however check the plugs to see if they're getting wet. Did you change the fuel pump yourself? When you turn the key on, you should have a buddy listening for the fuel pump and see if they can hear the pump running for a few seconds. Then it will shut off. You might have left out a step if this isn't happening/
Dirty fuel injectors maybe?
My 92 celica has the following symptoms, Hard cold start(easy start once it warms up) rough idle, stumbling during acceleration and is very hesitant during acceleration, I can be pressing the pedal all the way to the floor, and it takes a second to accelerate, and then it still accelerates more slowly than it should. I replaced the TPS with no change in performance, so I'm thinking dirty fuel injectors. What else could it be?
Dirty fuel injectors maybe?
Well, this could be several issues, but it troubleshooting we always start with the easiest to check or the simplest/cheapest problem first, You make have a fuel, air or spark issue. FIrst you want to check your air filter and air intake hose (before the filter). I have seen all kinds of things clog the air intake including a dead squirrel once. LOL!! Next if you think your air intake is ok; then you want to check your alternator/regulator, spark plug wires, spark plugs and if that all checks out check your distributor cap and rotor for wear (there is a little graphite ball inside the top of the distributor usually if it is not there it is a no go, if there is a bunch of black powder in there, that was the graphite ball being worn to shreds) The goldish colored contacts should look smooth and so should the pointy end of the rotor, any chinks, cracks, scratches, or any other damage; replace. In acceleration your car needs more power if your alternator is taking too much draw and not putting out enough you will experience your symptoms or similar too those, including the car not starting at all. Then check your coil, get a chilton or haynes manual and an ohm meter to check the resisting tolerance and if it is within manufacturer limits, then its not the problem, next comes the fuel system; more fuel is demanded by your engine during accel, so it could be your filter clogged and old, or the pump itself not building enough pressure during accel...Again you will get similar to exactly your symptoms. Other than that that or spark will explain the hard starts cold, (When you park overnight your fuel system is bleeding off the necessary pressure, once it has been running you have enough to run the car) This also brings me to the two last items, A possible bad pressure leak in your fuel system, or as you stated, a couple fouled injectors, but unless your car has been sitting for along time enough for the fuel system is gel, or your filter's element has broken completely inside which is very rare and I have never seen it only heard of it happening. I doubt this is the case, unless someone bypassed the filter and you have no fuel line protection (again I doubt because I think on your model the filter/pump should be inside the fuel tank. I do believe that is everything that would have similar symptoms to what you are experiencing, but please remember to just do the easy/simple checks first and things like checking your fuel lines for leaks should be done by a professional, if anything just for efficiency. Thanks for posting your question and good luck with your car!!!
Dirty fuel injectors maybe?
bad cat, or another exhaust problem, make sure you check that out
it probably is dirty injectors. you can try some lucus injector cleaner that you add to your gas, thats what i use in my car and it works really good. it helps with gas mileage to.
dirty air filter, fuel filter, dirty pcv, spark plug wires.
Try Lucas fuel system cleaner as that is best if the problem is in the fuel system.
What about the Air flow meter (the silver box right behind the air filter)? Bang on it while the car is running. It could be getting stuck open or closed, or it could just be burnt out. I've replaced them before. Ive also had problems with the fuel pump cut-off circuit in the meter causing the fuel pump to intermittently to stop working.
I would check the fuel pressure and volume, it could also be a plugged fuel filter. Why don't you try to spray some intake cleaner in the air intake while it has no power and see if it picks up, if it does then you have a fuel delivery problem. Then you can start testing for fuel pressure and change your fuel filter and then start testing sensors.
my 87 camaro was doin that id clean out the fuel injectors...it stopped doing that when i used lucas and when i was usin high octaine gasolinehowtodealwithhusband web ftp hosting
Dirty fuel injectors maybe?
Well, this could be several issues, but it troubleshooting we always start with the easiest to check or the simplest/cheapest problem first, You make have a fuel, air or spark issue. FIrst you want to check your air filter and air intake hose (before the filter). I have seen all kinds of things clog the air intake including a dead squirrel once. LOL!! Next if you think your air intake is ok; then you want to check your alternator/regulator, spark plug wires, spark plugs and if that all checks out check your distributor cap and rotor for wear (there is a little graphite ball inside the top of the distributor usually if it is not there it is a no go, if there is a bunch of black powder in there, that was the graphite ball being worn to shreds) The goldish colored contacts should look smooth and so should the pointy end of the rotor, any chinks, cracks, scratches, or any other damage; replace. In acceleration your car needs more power if your alternator is taking too much draw and not putting out enough you will experience your symptoms or similar too those, including the car not starting at all. Then check your coil, get a chilton or haynes manual and an ohm meter to check the resisting tolerance and if it is within manufacturer limits, then its not the problem, next comes the fuel system; more fuel is demanded by your engine during accel, so it could be your filter clogged and old, or the pump itself not building enough pressure during accel...Again you will get similar to exactly your symptoms. Other than that that or spark will explain the hard starts cold, (When you park overnight your fuel system is bleeding off the necessary pressure, once it has been running you have enough to run the car) This also brings me to the two last items, A possible bad pressure leak in your fuel system, or as you stated, a couple fouled injectors, but unless your car has been sitting for along time enough for the fuel system is gel, or your filter's element has broken completely inside which is very rare and I have never seen it only heard of it happening. I doubt this is the case, unless someone bypassed the filter and you have no fuel line protection (again I doubt because I think on your model the filter/pump should be inside the fuel tank. I do believe that is everything that would have similar symptoms to what you are experiencing, but please remember to just do the easy/simple checks first and things like checking your fuel lines for leaks should be done by a professional, if anything just for efficiency. Thanks for posting your question and good luck with your car!!!
Dirty fuel injectors maybe?
bad cat, or another exhaust problem, make sure you check that out
it probably is dirty injectors. you can try some lucus injector cleaner that you add to your gas, thats what i use in my car and it works really good. it helps with gas mileage to.
dirty air filter, fuel filter, dirty pcv, spark plug wires.
Try Lucas fuel system cleaner as that is best if the problem is in the fuel system.
What about the Air flow meter (the silver box right behind the air filter)? Bang on it while the car is running. It could be getting stuck open or closed, or it could just be burnt out. I've replaced them before. Ive also had problems with the fuel pump cut-off circuit in the meter causing the fuel pump to intermittently to stop working.
I would check the fuel pressure and volume, it could also be a plugged fuel filter. Why don't you try to spray some intake cleaner in the air intake while it has no power and see if it picks up, if it does then you have a fuel delivery problem. Then you can start testing for fuel pressure and change your fuel filter and then start testing sensors.
my 87 camaro was doin that id clean out the fuel injectors...it stopped doing that when i used lucas and when i was usin high octaine gasoline
"Jiffy Lube" one of those places where they change the oil in your car has a fuel injector service?
wherein they hook your car up to some device and clean the gunk out of the engine and the fuel injectors. Is it worth it?
%26quot;Jiffy Lube%26quot; one of those places where they change the oil in your car has a fuel injector service?
Do not let Jiffy Lube touch your car for ANYTHING. They will ruin your car and then deny it. The dealer can do that FI cleaning but unless your car is really old its a waste.
%26quot;Jiffy Lube%26quot; one of those places where they change the oil in your car has a fuel injector service?
Do not let Jiffy Lube touch your car for ANYTHING. They will ruin your car and then deny it. The dealer can do that FI cleaning but unless your car is really old its a waste.
I have an 1989 chevy camaro and the injectors on passenger side don't work?
The car runs but it's only running on four injectors(drivers side) and the other four on passenger side don't work. I have changed the edu, distributor, fuel regulator, fuel pump, injectors, distributor and still the same, what else can it be. It's an 1989 chevy camaro 5.7 TPI
I have an 1989 chevy camaro and the injectors on passenger side don't work?
I would suspect either a blown fuse.....check the fuse with an ohm meter.......or you could have a wiring issue....if the fuse checks good keep the ohm meter out and star checking for breaks in the wires!!
I have an 1989 chevy camaro and the injectors on passenger side don't work?
i would check the relay.
Blame the passenger and get them to fix the problem , thats the way the world now works
If you don't have some one to blame it means you are responsible
It's just the fuel injector fuse for the right bank! LOL
Sounds like you may have an electrical problem, maybe a blown fuse, maybe a problem at the electrical connector going to the passenger side injector bank, or maybe a PCM signal problem to that bank. The TPI injection system is bank fired (aka batch fired) and so it is common for an entire bank of injectors to fail if there is an electrical problem.
First I suggest you check your fuses. They are in the fuse block beneath the instrument panel and they are marked %26quot;INJ 1%26quot; and %26quot;INJ 2.%26quot;
If the fuses are okay then I suggest you unplug the electrical connector going to the passenger side injector bank and use a volt meter to verify that there are 12 volts on one of the two leads on that connector. If there is then next you need to check that the injector driver in the PCM is pulsing a ground to that bank. You should use a fuel injector noid light to do that by inserting its prongs into the electrical connector going to the passenger side injector bank. You can buy a Bosch PFI noid light for $15 or less at most parts stores.
Although a noid light will not tell you the quality of the ground or the width of the pulse it will prove whether or not you are getting a signal to that bank from the PCM. If the noid light is not flashing while the motor is cranking then there is no signal to that bank from the PCM.
If the noid light is flashing and the injectors on that bank are not firing then I suggest you take it to a shop that can test the injector driver function in the PCM by doing a pulse width measurement and testing the ground signal quality from the PCM to that bank using a digital storage oscilloscope.
Hope this helps and I hope you get it figured out.
I have an 1989 chevy camaro and the injectors on passenger side don't work?
I would suspect either a blown fuse.....check the fuse with an ohm meter.......or you could have a wiring issue....if the fuse checks good keep the ohm meter out and star checking for breaks in the wires!!
I have an 1989 chevy camaro and the injectors on passenger side don't work?
i would check the relay.
Blame the passenger and get them to fix the problem , thats the way the world now works
If you don't have some one to blame it means you are responsible
It's just the fuel injector fuse for the right bank! LOL
Sounds like you may have an electrical problem, maybe a blown fuse, maybe a problem at the electrical connector going to the passenger side injector bank, or maybe a PCM signal problem to that bank. The TPI injection system is bank fired (aka batch fired) and so it is common for an entire bank of injectors to fail if there is an electrical problem.
First I suggest you check your fuses. They are in the fuse block beneath the instrument panel and they are marked %26quot;INJ 1%26quot; and %26quot;INJ 2.%26quot;
If the fuses are okay then I suggest you unplug the electrical connector going to the passenger side injector bank and use a volt meter to verify that there are 12 volts on one of the two leads on that connector. If there is then next you need to check that the injector driver in the PCM is pulsing a ground to that bank. You should use a fuel injector noid light to do that by inserting its prongs into the electrical connector going to the passenger side injector bank. You can buy a Bosch PFI noid light for $15 or less at most parts stores.
Although a noid light will not tell you the quality of the ground or the width of the pulse it will prove whether or not you are getting a signal to that bank from the PCM. If the noid light is not flashing while the motor is cranking then there is no signal to that bank from the PCM.
If the noid light is flashing and the injectors on that bank are not firing then I suggest you take it to a shop that can test the injector driver function in the PCM by doing a pulse width measurement and testing the ground signal quality from the PCM to that bank using a digital storage oscilloscope.
Hope this helps and I hope you get it figured out.
My car has been operating without a fuel filter, not it won't start, what has happened?
I have a 1992 Astro Van that I bought used. It was running fine for a month or so, not it wont' start. It's getting gas to the engine and spark, i changed the spark plugs and it started then stopped. Now it won't start. I went to change the fuel filter and saw that it didn't have one! Just a rubber hose where the filter should be. So now I ask, if it's been running without a filter and now it won't start, what might of happened? is the fuel injectors clogged or something??
My car has been operating without a fuel filter, not it won't start, what has happened?
Yikes! I would first get someone to stand at the the end of the van. When you turn the key up once but not all the way to start you should hear the fuel pump start up. It will sound like a humming noise. If no noise then your fuel pump is bad. Usually a sign of clogging fuel injectors is when the vehicle sputters a bit when you hit the accelator. If the vehicle wasn't doing that before this it is probably your fuel pump.
My car has been operating without a fuel filter, not it won't start, what has happened?
The fuel line is clogged. Running the car without a fuel filter would do that. The fuel has some sediment in it, and now you have clogged a fuel line by not filtering it out.
Sounds like you figured it out. Install a new filter and pull your injectors and clean them with a spray cleaner. Check for fuel on the fuel rail again. You may also want to check the fuel pressure.
Put on a fuel filter, can I guess that it was spewing black smoke? which is an indicator of unburned gas which would be the reason that with new plugs it ran before they fouled out. Put in the filter, add some STP to the gas, clean or change the plugs again and you should be fine.
yes your fuel injectors are clogged or your fuel lines might be clogged
It would seem that is the case, if not the injectors, then the fuel line itself.
My car has been operating without a fuel filter, not it won't start, what has happened?
Yikes! I would first get someone to stand at the the end of the van. When you turn the key up once but not all the way to start you should hear the fuel pump start up. It will sound like a humming noise. If no noise then your fuel pump is bad. Usually a sign of clogging fuel injectors is when the vehicle sputters a bit when you hit the accelator. If the vehicle wasn't doing that before this it is probably your fuel pump.
My car has been operating without a fuel filter, not it won't start, what has happened?
The fuel line is clogged. Running the car without a fuel filter would do that. The fuel has some sediment in it, and now you have clogged a fuel line by not filtering it out.
Sounds like you figured it out. Install a new filter and pull your injectors and clean them with a spray cleaner. Check for fuel on the fuel rail again. You may also want to check the fuel pressure.
Put on a fuel filter, can I guess that it was spewing black smoke? which is an indicator of unburned gas which would be the reason that with new plugs it ran before they fouled out. Put in the filter, add some STP to the gas, clean or change the plugs again and you should be fine.
yes your fuel injectors are clogged or your fuel lines might be clogged
It would seem that is the case, if not the injectors, then the fuel line itself.
Fuel Injector(s) change?
1995 Olds Aurora , 4.0 litre V8, needs at least some, if not all injectors replaced. Once plenum is removed, the injectors sit right on the top of the engine and are really easy to access (the only thing on this car easy to get to). Is there a trick to changing these things out, or is it a straight forward job that anyone with a little mechanical ability could do? Do they need to be tightened with a specific torque spec?
Fuel Injector(s) change?
1. clean the injectors surrounding .
2.mark the fuel pipe lines otherwise if any change happen it will change the firing order and the engine will not start.
3.unscrew and remove the injectors and don't lose the injectors' seals
4.put suitable piece of cloth in the injectors openings to prevent any thing to fall inside the cylinders.
5.re-clean the area around the injectors
6.repair injectors.
7.remove these piece of cloth, put the seals and tighten the injectors in their place
8. tightening should good but with mechanical sense ie.not too hard otherwise the bolts would be destroyed
9. start your engine and check with your hands for any gas sealing around injectors (if so just tighten again that injector
SO IT IS JUST STRAIGHT FORWARD JOB AND NO NEED FOR A TORQUE SPEC
Fuel Injector(s) change?
The easiest thing to do is get a shop manual buy or library to do it right. Some need you to release the pressure by removing the gas cap and add a jumper or remove a relay and run it dry than remove it . put new O-ring rub some oil to it (on the o-ring)and on the nut/bolt add blue thread lock 7-10 or ? ft. per lbs to play it safe look in the book thats all you need to do is retap a broken thread or stud even crack the intake Right? for being to tight or loose and cause a fire.
It's easy. Just make sure you use new seals, check the flexi fuel lines for condition and evacuate the residual fuel pressure before opening any lines. Use proper high pressure fuel line if you need to replace.
Jules, auto tech and lecturer. Australia.
jeez... boring question 2 points.
Fuel Injector(s) change?
1. clean the injectors surrounding .
2.mark the fuel pipe lines otherwise if any change happen it will change the firing order and the engine will not start.
3.unscrew and remove the injectors and don't lose the injectors' seals
4.put suitable piece of cloth in the injectors openings to prevent any thing to fall inside the cylinders.
5.re-clean the area around the injectors
6.repair injectors.
7.remove these piece of cloth, put the seals and tighten the injectors in their place
8. tightening should good but with mechanical sense ie.not too hard otherwise the bolts would be destroyed
9. start your engine and check with your hands for any gas sealing around injectors (if so just tighten again that injector
SO IT IS JUST STRAIGHT FORWARD JOB AND NO NEED FOR A TORQUE SPEC
Fuel Injector(s) change?
The easiest thing to do is get a shop manual buy or library to do it right. Some need you to release the pressure by removing the gas cap and add a jumper or remove a relay and run it dry than remove it . put new O-ring rub some oil to it (on the o-ring)and on the nut/bolt add blue thread lock 7-10 or ? ft. per lbs to play it safe look in the book thats all you need to do is retap a broken thread or stud even crack the intake Right? for being to tight or loose and cause a fire.
It's easy. Just make sure you use new seals, check the flexi fuel lines for condition and evacuate the residual fuel pressure before opening any lines. Use proper high pressure fuel line if you need to replace.
Jules, auto tech and lecturer. Australia.
jeez... boring question 2 points.
Fuel Injector Problem On Lincoln Towncar, Mechanic's Please Help?
Hi, my 1993 lincoln towncar has been putting really bad and I finally found the problem (I thought) I was pulling the electrical plug In's that go to the fuel Injector's and when I pulled them off while running It had a very low Idle which was good meaning that the fuel Injector's where working, but I came to the very last two and noticed no difference In the motor so I thought the Injector's where bad and bought two new one's but It did not fix the problem they still are not working and I checked the wires and they are delivering out volts to them two Injector's so the Injector's can perform but these two are not working, I checked all the fuses and changed the fuel filter and the air filter Is clean
I was wondering what else can be holding these two fuel Injector's back from working? It's only running on 6cyl.
Any help would be great! Thanks
Fuel Injector Problem On Lincoln Towncar, Mechanic's Please Help?
Sorry you spent the money for the injectors and they didn't help. That happens alot when people don't fully diagnose a problem. The problem could be that the cylinders aren't getting any ignition because the plugs aren't firing. You've eliminated fuel as the problem so it has to be ignition or compression. If the two cylinders that aren't firing are on the same bank, it is probablythe head gasket blown between cylinders. A compression test will reveal that. If the cylinders are on opposite banks it is probably the coil that serves those two cylinders.
Fuel Injector Problem On Lincoln Towncar, Mechanic's Please Help?
The computor has drivers that control 2 injectors each .
Have the computor checked. other than that it could be in the wireing harness.
Check for fire on those cylinders. Could be that they get fuel but no fire.
the injectors that you replace did not need to be replace. you need to do an engine compression test. low compression reading will fool you that the injectors are bad. the MOST common problem on your town car 4.6 liters engine is damage headgasket. hook a compression gauge(tool cost 60.00) and do an engine compression test. reading lower than 70 psi. indicate problemhair gel cat
I was wondering what else can be holding these two fuel Injector's back from working? It's only running on 6cyl.
Any help would be great! Thanks
Fuel Injector Problem On Lincoln Towncar, Mechanic's Please Help?
Sorry you spent the money for the injectors and they didn't help. That happens alot when people don't fully diagnose a problem. The problem could be that the cylinders aren't getting any ignition because the plugs aren't firing. You've eliminated fuel as the problem so it has to be ignition or compression. If the two cylinders that aren't firing are on the same bank, it is probablythe head gasket blown between cylinders. A compression test will reveal that. If the cylinders are on opposite banks it is probably the coil that serves those two cylinders.
Fuel Injector Problem On Lincoln Towncar, Mechanic's Please Help?
The computor has drivers that control 2 injectors each .
Have the computor checked. other than that it could be in the wireing harness.
Check for fire on those cylinders. Could be that they get fuel but no fire.
the injectors that you replace did not need to be replace. you need to do an engine compression test. low compression reading will fool you that the injectors are bad. the MOST common problem on your town car 4.6 liters engine is damage headgasket. hook a compression gauge(tool cost 60.00) and do an engine compression test. reading lower than 70 psi. indicate problem
Very bad fuel economy for 2000 mitsubishi eclipse?
I had recently purchased a second hand 00 eclipse. The oxygen sensors were changed, used the fuel injector cleaner, and had the air filter changed. Yet I still get something like 14 gallons per mile out of the car. Is there anything I can look out for? I found out online that on local road it is approx. 20 miles per gallon and 28 on highway. I know these are %26quot;exaggerated%26quot; sometimes, but I still think 14 miles to a gallon is a very bad economy.
Very bad fuel economy for 2000 mitsubishi eclipse?
i own a repair shop and they do a lot better than that one is,id take it a shop and have it checked out real good,i think it may be in need of a real good basic tune up ,and a good mechanic needs to do it,this way he,ll know what to look for on it,i service a lot of those cars and they do way better than that one does,good luck with it hope this helps.
Very bad fuel economy for 2000 mitsubishi eclipse?
14 gallons per mile! wow!!
you might have a bad piston ring, it would cause a blowby and reduced power. it too would make is so that you mpg is alot worse. the first thing i would do i check the spark plugs and timing, if neither of those help i would have a good mechanic look at it for a definate answer.
have the plugs replaced , and probably the intake or exhaust is restricted. pug the computer to it.
that's very poor gas miles try changing the oil, spark plugs,fuel filter and gas treatment
Very bad fuel economy for 2000 mitsubishi eclipse?
i own a repair shop and they do a lot better than that one is,id take it a shop and have it checked out real good,i think it may be in need of a real good basic tune up ,and a good mechanic needs to do it,this way he,ll know what to look for on it,i service a lot of those cars and they do way better than that one does,good luck with it hope this helps.
Very bad fuel economy for 2000 mitsubishi eclipse?
14 gallons per mile! wow!!
you might have a bad piston ring, it would cause a blowby and reduced power. it too would make is so that you mpg is alot worse. the first thing i would do i check the spark plugs and timing, if neither of those help i would have a good mechanic look at it for a definate answer.
have the plugs replaced , and probably the intake or exhaust is restricted. pug the computer to it.
that's very poor gas miles try changing the oil, spark plugs,fuel filter and gas treatment
What are the signs of bad Fuel injectors?
My van won't start in the morning or evenings when it's colder, I have a 94 Chevy astro van and I've been told by one mechanic that I need to replace my fuel injectors, so i took it to a different mechanic he said i needed a new fuel filter so they changed it and the van still wouldn't start, they did a Diagnostic test on it ant told me that there was nothing wrong with my van.
So my queston is are there any signs that the fuel injectors are bad?
What are the signs of bad Fuel injectors?
At first view seems o.k. Try this go to any pep's boys or autozone and buy 2 injector cleaners, put them on your gas tank (when you have 1/2 of it) two days tops Ypou would notice some improvement; if not, probably need to be replace.
Good luck
What are the signs of bad Fuel injectors?
worse case schenerio is a crank/no start, exactly what you've got. 94, that's throttle body, right? it's got 2 injectors on top of the throttle body. chances are slim that both injectors went bad at the same time. could either be a wiring issue, bad injector fuse, or faulty fuel pump. anything like that can cause a no start
So my queston is are there any signs that the fuel injectors are bad?
What are the signs of bad Fuel injectors?
At first view seems o.k. Try this go to any pep's boys or autozone and buy 2 injector cleaners, put them on your gas tank (when you have 1/2 of it) two days tops Ypou would notice some improvement; if not, probably need to be replace.
Good luck
What are the signs of bad Fuel injectors?
worse case schenerio is a crank/no start, exactly what you've got. 94, that's throttle body, right? it's got 2 injectors on top of the throttle body. chances are slim that both injectors went bad at the same time. could either be a wiring issue, bad injector fuse, or faulty fuel pump. anything like that can cause a no start
How do I get my car to pass the California Smog Test?
I failed twice now.
After the first one I took it into the shop and had a Smog Test Diagnostic done. I had to replace the Flange Gasket, clean the Fuel Injectors, Change the Oil, %26amp; Clean the Throttle Body. I took it back to the Smog Testing place and it failed. I took it to another place and asked if they could make any adjustments and they wanted me to pay them for another Smog Diagnostic. I JUST HAD THAT DONE! Anyway, I need to know what adjustments I can make on the car so that it will pass. I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla. I know that it is JUST adjustments that need to be made on the fuel intake and emissions output. It has nothing to do with whether the car is in working condition or not. I am in the San Diego area if you can recommend a place that will help make the adjustments cheap and help it pass.
Thanks for your help.
How do I get my car to pass the California Smog Test?
What you have done is in the right direction, but if you really want to pass legally, you have to be concern with two things: Catalytic Converter and O2 sensor.
If you don't want to spend that extra money, replace catalytic converter first, then O2 sensor later.
If you still don't want to spend that much money, get one of the bottle that guranteed you will pass from Kragen and try your luck, or you can pay someone to pass you.
Good Luck. Don't forget distributor cap %26amp; rotor, air filter and spark plugs
How do I get my car to pass the California Smog Test?
California air quality resources board. Or CARB has you bent over the fender. Apply for a hardship exemption and let the smog guys adjust on your car. Unless you drove this 1994 from the 47 other states that do not require ZLEV or ULEV emissions California does. You will be OK they will wave your car past emission.%26quot; If you imported this car from Nevada watch out your car is out of compliance and has to be eliminated!%26quot; just kidding. You really need to get the local smog athority on your tail pipe.
After the first one I took it into the shop and had a Smog Test Diagnostic done. I had to replace the Flange Gasket, clean the Fuel Injectors, Change the Oil, %26amp; Clean the Throttle Body. I took it back to the Smog Testing place and it failed. I took it to another place and asked if they could make any adjustments and they wanted me to pay them for another Smog Diagnostic. I JUST HAD THAT DONE! Anyway, I need to know what adjustments I can make on the car so that it will pass. I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla. I know that it is JUST adjustments that need to be made on the fuel intake and emissions output. It has nothing to do with whether the car is in working condition or not. I am in the San Diego area if you can recommend a place that will help make the adjustments cheap and help it pass.
Thanks for your help.
How do I get my car to pass the California Smog Test?
What you have done is in the right direction, but if you really want to pass legally, you have to be concern with two things: Catalytic Converter and O2 sensor.
If you don't want to spend that extra money, replace catalytic converter first, then O2 sensor later.
If you still don't want to spend that much money, get one of the bottle that guranteed you will pass from Kragen and try your luck, or you can pay someone to pass you.
Good Luck. Don't forget distributor cap %26amp; rotor, air filter and spark plugs
How do I get my car to pass the California Smog Test?
California air quality resources board. Or CARB has you bent over the fender. Apply for a hardship exemption and let the smog guys adjust on your car. Unless you drove this 1994 from the 47 other states that do not require ZLEV or ULEV emissions California does. You will be OK they will wave your car past emission.%26quot; If you imported this car from Nevada watch out your car is out of compliance and has to be eliminated!%26quot; just kidding. You really need to get the local smog athority on your tail pipe.
Fuel injectors?
My 89 honda civic will not start. The ecu flashed 16 times so I am guessing that is code 16 right. It says fuel injectors on that code. Do I need to just change them out or clean them. Can I clean them.
Fuel injectors?
Flashed 16 times?...it's suppose to flash 1 time pause then 6 times for a code 16!...it will flash the code 3 times!!!! do it again this time looking for a pause between flashes! remember it will repeat the problem code 3 times!
Fuel injectors?
you may not have a problem with the injectors them selves you may be looking at a driver problem.
code could mean a sticking injector or no juice to injector. So need to check with a node light or carefully listen while cranking to hear if injector is working. I would recommend more tests before your automatically assume it is the injector. and yes injectors can be cleaned and or replaced.
James , being a mechanic is not easy, You have to be patient.
test the injectors !!! before any changing
Like Robert P said, you're reading the code wrong. This is not an injector code.
It will be 2 digits. If the code were 16, you'd get one flash for the first digit, 1, and then a pause, followed by 6 flashes for the second digit, 6.
Fuel injectors?
Flashed 16 times?...it's suppose to flash 1 time pause then 6 times for a code 16!...it will flash the code 3 times!!!! do it again this time looking for a pause between flashes! remember it will repeat the problem code 3 times!
Fuel injectors?
you may not have a problem with the injectors them selves you may be looking at a driver problem.
code could mean a sticking injector or no juice to injector. So need to check with a node light or carefully listen while cranking to hear if injector is working. I would recommend more tests before your automatically assume it is the injector. and yes injectors can be cleaned and or replaced.
James , being a mechanic is not easy, You have to be patient.
test the injectors !!! before any changing
Like Robert P said, you're reading the code wrong. This is not an injector code.
It will be 2 digits. If the code were 16, you'd get one flash for the first digit, 1, and then a pause, followed by 6 flashes for the second digit, 6.
99 Pontiac Grand Prix with poor fuel mileage all of a sudden?
I have a 99 Grand Prix GTP that I normally averaged 27-28 mpg. My check engine light started to come on for maybe a day or two and then go off for weeks before coming back on again and for for the same day or two. After this starting happening pretty consistently, I noticed my fuel mileage dropped to approx. 18 mpg. The dealer scanned the check engine light to say my car was running rich. I could have told him that since I seem to be burning gas like crazy. He suggested changing the air and fuel filters, spark plug wires and ignition coils. I changed everything myself with an outcome of now 19-20 mpg. On my last trip to the dealer, I asked for a Fuel Injector service since I hit 100,000 miles. He stated that he didn't think that would cure the problem and he suggested changing the O2 sensor. I now have found out that my car has 2 sensors and was wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to which one I should try to switch first or if they think this might not even be the problem.
99 Pontiac Grand Prix with poor fuel mileage all of a sudden?
as a rule of thumb if you know for a fact that they have never been changed id just change them both,that may help bring the mileage back up a lot on it,that was a lot of mileage to loose at one time,id replace both of them,their called an up stream and a down stream, so it wont hurt to replace both of them,good luck maybe this will help the mileage.
99 Pontiac Grand Prix with poor fuel mileage all of a sudden?
I have the same car and Im having the same problem... I change the O2 sensor but theres another??
yeah change both of them . your computer works with both to determine air fuel ratio so you can change one and still have the same problem
u should probably check the sensor closest to the air filter(farthest from the engine).
Seems awfully vague. What fault code(s) did the dealer pull? That will tell you where to start looking for the problem rather than taking shots at a dart board, which is what you are doing now. I certainly would not replace an O2 sensor unless I knew there was a problem with it. If you paid for a diagnostic then O2 sensor function would have been part of the test if the code was for a lean or rich running condition. If they didn't, get your money back and go somewhere else.dual boot laptop girl myspace
99 Pontiac Grand Prix with poor fuel mileage all of a sudden?
as a rule of thumb if you know for a fact that they have never been changed id just change them both,that may help bring the mileage back up a lot on it,that was a lot of mileage to loose at one time,id replace both of them,their called an up stream and a down stream, so it wont hurt to replace both of them,good luck maybe this will help the mileage.
99 Pontiac Grand Prix with poor fuel mileage all of a sudden?
I have the same car and Im having the same problem... I change the O2 sensor but theres another??
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yeah change both of them . your computer works with both to determine air fuel ratio so you can change one and still have the same problem
u should probably check the sensor closest to the air filter(farthest from the engine).
Seems awfully vague. What fault code(s) did the dealer pull? That will tell you where to start looking for the problem rather than taking shots at a dart board, which is what you are doing now. I certainly would not replace an O2 sensor unless I knew there was a problem with it. If you paid for a diagnostic then O2 sensor function would have been part of the test if the code was for a lean or rich running condition. If they didn't, get your money back and go somewhere else.
Some body know how to change the fuel injector?
yes however there is generally more than one. and it is a job that can require replacing many o-rings and gaskets not to mention flammable gasoline is going to get spilled. if you try it make sure to bleed the pressure from the fuel rail partially by disabling the fuel pump with the engine running so when you pop out that injector fuel does not spray everywhere.
Some body know how to change the fuel injector?
It depends on the car. I know how to do it on my car, but since you don't say what kind of car you have, an answer would be largely a guess.
Some body know how to change the fuel injector?
Sure. Drop it at the shop and leave the keys in the secure key holder, and I'll get to it right after Christmas.
Some body know how to change the fuel injector?
It depends on the car. I know how to do it on my car, but since you don't say what kind of car you have, an answer would be largely a guess.
Some body know how to change the fuel injector?
Sure. Drop it at the shop and leave the keys in the secure key holder, and I'll get to it right after Christmas.
Fuel System Cleaner?
I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT and I was wondering what is the best product to use to clean out my fuel system. I was going to change my fuel injectors, but I was told there is no point, and that they are probably just dirty.
Fuel System Cleaner?
Most fuel system cleaners don't work very good ...I have heard great things about seafoam but can't say from personal experience
http://www.seafoamsales.com/products.htm
Fuel System Cleaner?
dump 3 or 4 bolltles in the next time you gas up. just about any brand is good. they are all about the same. You may hav to do this for a while depending on how much varnish accumolated on the injectors.
Mind you this kind of situation happens mostly from a lot of driving in the city with all that stop and go stuff. If you do a lot of highway driving its usually not a problem. the car more r less cleans itself.
Use a high quality injector cleaner about every 5th fill. STP or any other well known. Injectors are expensive and should be cleaned on a regular basis. Do not neglect your fuel filter!
The EVERWARE system cleaner is one of the best on the market, but you would need to take it to a shop to have it done. It is a 3 stage cleaner, 1 it has a in fuel tank injector cleaner that absorbs water and burns it to remove water from tank and clean lines, 2 has a throtlebody/carb cleaner that takes off carbon deposits and other gunk and cleans really well, 3 has a intake and injector cleaner to remove carbon deposits in intake manifold and injectors, this is done while the car runs @2000 RPM and is put in thru the cars vacuum system. This is an $60-85 retail system cleaner.
Most over the counter fuel system cleaner are the same and dont really do much if anything.
Hope this helps.
Fuel System Cleaner?
Most fuel system cleaners don't work very good ...I have heard great things about seafoam but can't say from personal experience
http://www.seafoamsales.com/products.htm
Fuel System Cleaner?
dump 3 or 4 bolltles in the next time you gas up. just about any brand is good. they are all about the same. You may hav to do this for a while depending on how much varnish accumolated on the injectors.
Mind you this kind of situation happens mostly from a lot of driving in the city with all that stop and go stuff. If you do a lot of highway driving its usually not a problem. the car more r less cleans itself.
Use a high quality injector cleaner about every 5th fill. STP or any other well known. Injectors are expensive and should be cleaned on a regular basis. Do not neglect your fuel filter!
The EVERWARE system cleaner is one of the best on the market, but you would need to take it to a shop to have it done. It is a 3 stage cleaner, 1 it has a in fuel tank injector cleaner that absorbs water and burns it to remove water from tank and clean lines, 2 has a throtlebody/carb cleaner that takes off carbon deposits and other gunk and cleans really well, 3 has a intake and injector cleaner to remove carbon deposits in intake manifold and injectors, this is done while the car runs @2000 RPM and is put in thru the cars vacuum system. This is an $60-85 retail system cleaner.
Most over the counter fuel system cleaner are the same and dont really do much if anything.
Hope this helps.
06 Civic ex! Fuel Injectors?
Does anyone know how to replace the fuel injectors and where they are in the 06-09 civic? i did the oil change and they told me that my fuel injectors need to be replace? does anyone know where they are, or any website where it explain where and how to replace them?
Thank you!
06 Civic ex! Fuel Injectors?
Carlos: Do yourself a favor and call a good parts house, ask the guy who is looking up your part, how often someone buys 1 or more injectors for your Year, Make,Model and Engine.Size car?
I'm betting he'll say not very often.
Don't believe everything someone tells you.
06 Civic ex! Fuel Injectors?
No. You don't need new fuel injectors. People at an oil change place wouldn't know this and unless there's a performance problem then it would be stupid to replace them on a 3 year old vehicle. Just add fuel injector cleaner and a half tank of premium gasoline from a top tier fuel company (chevron, mobil, or shell)
If you don't know where they are by looking at your engine then you shouldn't be dealing with the injectors in the first place. Fuel + lack of knowledge = hospital.
But...I'll be nice, if you want to kill yourself and possibly your neighbors, then by all means. There is usually a cover over the fuel injectors that's bolted to the block, it should be the only plastic thing in the middle of the engine (as long as you don't have a shroud covering the engine). Generally, most car companies bolt the cover with torx screws and for good reasons, they don't want you to start a fuel fire in your engine compartment.
Again...don't touch this unless you have a friend who knows how to purge fuel from the lines; do not follow an internet website to do a replacement of this type...too much can and will go wrong.
Thank you!
06 Civic ex! Fuel Injectors?
Carlos: Do yourself a favor and call a good parts house, ask the guy who is looking up your part, how often someone buys 1 or more injectors for your Year, Make,Model and Engine.Size car?
I'm betting he'll say not very often.
Don't believe everything someone tells you.
06 Civic ex! Fuel Injectors?
No. You don't need new fuel injectors. People at an oil change place wouldn't know this and unless there's a performance problem then it would be stupid to replace them on a 3 year old vehicle. Just add fuel injector cleaner and a half tank of premium gasoline from a top tier fuel company (chevron, mobil, or shell)
If you don't know where they are by looking at your engine then you shouldn't be dealing with the injectors in the first place. Fuel + lack of knowledge = hospital.
But...I'll be nice, if you want to kill yourself and possibly your neighbors, then by all means. There is usually a cover over the fuel injectors that's bolted to the block, it should be the only plastic thing in the middle of the engine (as long as you don't have a shroud covering the engine). Generally, most car companies bolt the cover with torx screws and for good reasons, they don't want you to start a fuel fire in your engine compartment.
Again...don't touch this unless you have a friend who knows how to purge fuel from the lines; do not follow an internet website to do a replacement of this type...too much can and will go wrong.
On a Camaro, why would a person change cylinder heads, manifold, fuel rails/injectors if it was running great?
I'm seriously thinking of buying a well maintained Camaro from a friend who stated he was planning to do a %26quot;3.4/3400 top-end swap.%26quot; He stated he was planning to install 3400 cylinder heads, lower intake manifold, fuel rails and injectors. Is this ONLY for speed? Does it effect fuel efficiency? I know the car runs well now. If these items are not replaced like he was planning on doing, what issues would I have? I'm not planning to show or race the car, only use it to get back and forth places.
On a Camaro, why would a person change cylinder heads, manifold, fuel rails/injectors if it was running great?
well first off. you can build up a 6 cylinder to be fast. i have a 98 3.8 V6 camaro and its running better times in the quarter than the V8 and ive spent a total of $1500 in parts. and its all motor. but anyway. the 3.4 liter motor had very restricted heads and intake. And honestly on this motor it would be very.hard to do upgrades because they dont have many performance parts available for the GM 3400 V6's. And as for the injectors and fuel rail. there should be no reason to swap these components out unless he is planning on adding quite a bit of horsepower where the bigger injectors or rails will flow better. And in this motor its not necessary. It doesn't change your fuel MPG because the same amount of fuel is entering the engine because the regulator only lets through what the computer tells it too. If i were you I would get the car like it is. The only problems ive ever seen in these cars is that the head gasket fails quite a bit and is highly prone to cracking. Just play it safe and dont let the car ever get above 235 degrees. if it does pull over and wait till it cools off then take it to get the coolant system looked at. something a simple as a bad thermostat can cause a head gasket to blow. Well I hope this helps. Good Luck :)
On a Camaro, why would a person change cylinder heads, manifold, fuel rails/injectors if it was running great?
anyone trying to hop up a 6 cylinder is a fool,, buy it before he wreckes it...but be careful,,those engines are well known for intake vacuum leaks...i would not buy it without a compression test,,,and NEVER buy a car with check engine lite on...ever
That's funny about foolish people trying to mod a V6, considering you can make a good amount of additional power with top end swaps on practically the entire 60 degree engine family, including the 3.1, 3.4 and the 3400. Maybe I should totally reconsider modifying the 2.0 LNF in my Cobalt SS/TC because its even smaller. Hmmmm. Not. Sometimes you just have to hot rod what you have, and sometimes its just to see what you can do, even with the %26quot;small%26quot; stuff.
The reason you would do the swap on a good engine is that you can bump the horsepower/torque up, resulting in a increase in your fun-to-drive ratio. Accelerating onto a highway is equally important - its always good to have a little extra under the hood for the non-racing times you need it! A reasonable improvement in power does not necessarily harm your gas mileage if its done correctly, and a top end swap on your car won't necessarily kill the mpg's.
If he doesn't do the swap, you shouldn't have issues, provided the engine is well maintained now. It'll run and drive completely stock. 3.4's have their known problems, but if it hasn't caused any by now, you should be good to go so long as you keep the car well maintained as well.
On a Camaro, why would a person change cylinder heads, manifold, fuel rails/injectors if it was running great?
well first off. you can build up a 6 cylinder to be fast. i have a 98 3.8 V6 camaro and its running better times in the quarter than the V8 and ive spent a total of $1500 in parts. and its all motor. but anyway. the 3.4 liter motor had very restricted heads and intake. And honestly on this motor it would be very.hard to do upgrades because they dont have many performance parts available for the GM 3400 V6's. And as for the injectors and fuel rail. there should be no reason to swap these components out unless he is planning on adding quite a bit of horsepower where the bigger injectors or rails will flow better. And in this motor its not necessary. It doesn't change your fuel MPG because the same amount of fuel is entering the engine because the regulator only lets through what the computer tells it too. If i were you I would get the car like it is. The only problems ive ever seen in these cars is that the head gasket fails quite a bit and is highly prone to cracking. Just play it safe and dont let the car ever get above 235 degrees. if it does pull over and wait till it cools off then take it to get the coolant system looked at. something a simple as a bad thermostat can cause a head gasket to blow. Well I hope this helps. Good Luck :)
On a Camaro, why would a person change cylinder heads, manifold, fuel rails/injectors if it was running great?
anyone trying to hop up a 6 cylinder is a fool,, buy it before he wreckes it...but be careful,,those engines are well known for intake vacuum leaks...i would not buy it without a compression test,,,and NEVER buy a car with check engine lite on...ever
That's funny about foolish people trying to mod a V6, considering you can make a good amount of additional power with top end swaps on practically the entire 60 degree engine family, including the 3.1, 3.4 and the 3400. Maybe I should totally reconsider modifying the 2.0 LNF in my Cobalt SS/TC because its even smaller. Hmmmm. Not. Sometimes you just have to hot rod what you have, and sometimes its just to see what you can do, even with the %26quot;small%26quot; stuff.
The reason you would do the swap on a good engine is that you can bump the horsepower/torque up, resulting in a increase in your fun-to-drive ratio. Accelerating onto a highway is equally important - its always good to have a little extra under the hood for the non-racing times you need it! A reasonable improvement in power does not necessarily harm your gas mileage if its done correctly, and a top end swap on your car won't necessarily kill the mpg's.
If he doesn't do the swap, you shouldn't have issues, provided the engine is well maintained now. It'll run and drive completely stock. 3.4's have their known problems, but if it hasn't caused any by now, you should be good to go so long as you keep the car well maintained as well.
How to change fuel injector?
on a 2002 cougar
How to change fuel injector?
1. Go to your public library reference section and find one of the Motors or Chilton manuals and photocopy the pages that describe the procedure. 2. Go to an auto or hardware store for EYE PROTECTION AND NITRILE GLOVES. Gasoline is dangerous stuff and also not good for your eyes or body. 3. Make sure you follow ALL of the directions in order. If the directions don't make sense to you, get someone who does know how to do this. It isn't hard in and of itself, but getting all of the stuff off the engine to the point where you remove the injector is a major PITA. One more hint, take many pictures of each step to put it back correctly.dynamic editing good idea to buy a rental car
How to change fuel injector?
1. Go to your public library reference section and find one of the Motors or Chilton manuals and photocopy the pages that describe the procedure. 2. Go to an auto or hardware store for EYE PROTECTION AND NITRILE GLOVES. Gasoline is dangerous stuff and also not good for your eyes or body. 3. Make sure you follow ALL of the directions in order. If the directions don't make sense to you, get someone who does know how to do this. It isn't hard in and of itself, but getting all of the stuff off the engine to the point where you remove the injector is a major PITA. One more hint, take many pictures of each step to put it back correctly.
Toyota echo runs poor backfires at air filter,has been serviced,has new fuel filter,worse when cold?
1999 echo ,runs ok but has had this problem for a long time now ,had mechanic look at it,changed fuel filter.seemed better short term but again runs poorly,he suspects could be fuel pump,says backfires due to lack of fuel to injectors i think cause does not have a carby
Toyota echo runs poor backfires at air filter,has been serviced,has new fuel filter,worse when cold?
try changing the sparks , and clean the injection system .
Toyota echo runs poor backfires at air filter,has been serviced,has new fuel filter,worse when cold?
try changing the sparks , and clean the injection system .
91 Civic DX getting codes for oxygen sensor and Fuel Injectors! HELP! Answer for a quick 10 points!?
My 91 Civic has been acting funny lately. The exhaust smells bad and its throwing codes 1 and 16 for bad O2 sensor and Bad fuel injectors (respectively). I want to change the o2 sensor to see if it helps fix both problems because the car was running fine just a little bit ago. It bogs downs randomly at high speeds and it almost always stalls in 1st gear (and yes i know how to shift, not a user error on this one). Any help would be appreciated on what to do. Also, where is the o2 sensor located? I REALLY need to know how to do this today. thanks a lot.
91 Civic DX getting codes for oxygen sensor and Fuel Injectors! HELP! Answer for a quick 10 points!?
no the o2 sensor is in the down pipe under car
91 Civic DX getting codes for oxygen sensor and Fuel Injectors! HELP! Answer for a quick 10 points!?
Try pulling the fuse 16, the yellow one i beilive, and the 02 sensor is just below were the fuel injector is.
once the 02 seonsor is fine the fuel injector will work right.
O2 sensor is in the exhaust manifold.
91 Civic DX getting codes for oxygen sensor and Fuel Injectors! HELP! Answer for a quick 10 points!?
no the o2 sensor is in the down pipe under car
91 Civic DX getting codes for oxygen sensor and Fuel Injectors! HELP! Answer for a quick 10 points!?
Try pulling the fuse 16, the yellow one i beilive, and the 02 sensor is just below were the fuel injector is.
once the 02 seonsor is fine the fuel injector will work right.
O2 sensor is in the exhaust manifold.
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
its an 87 olds delta 88 this is what i have changed Alternator, Battery, Belt, Coil Pack, Crank Position Sensor, Fuel Pump, Fuel Line, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Fuel Pump Relay
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
Well your fuel injectors could be clogged up. did your car recently run out of gas fully? all the gunk and **** can get clogged up in there .
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
you mean there are no juice going to them? i have the same car except mine is a 1988 and i have a plug-in on the harness that goes to the injectors.you might check the plug-in.
Sounds like you are not getting an injector pulse from the ECM. May need to replace the computer or check the wiring to the injectors for any breaks.
good luck....
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
Well your fuel injectors could be clogged up. did your car recently run out of gas fully? all the gunk and **** can get clogged up in there .
Why arent my fuel injectors working?
you mean there are no juice going to them? i have the same car except mine is a 1988 and i have a plug-in on the harness that goes to the injectors.you might check the plug-in.
Sounds like you are not getting an injector pulse from the ECM. May need to replace the computer or check the wiring to the injectors for any breaks.
good luck....
1995 monte carlo 3.4 fuel injector swap to 4.3 and any other easy mods for more power?
i heard it was possible to change the injectors on a 3.4 dohc to injectors with a 4.3 l and i was wondering if this is posible and if anyone has done it and if so would i have to change the fuel pump out to since they send more preasure i heard the 3.4 dohc originaly had 4.3 ingectors in it but had to much power so they put 3.1 injectors in it
1995 monte carlo 3.4 fuel injector swap to 4.3 and any other easy mods for more power?
If it's a TBI 4.3L V6 it will not work and if SFI it will not work they both use a different type of fuel injection.
1995 monte carlo 3.4 fuel injector swap to 4.3 and any other easy mods for more power?
Uh, no.
Short of running a blower on that engine, you aren't doing enough to outflow the stock injectors.
You aren't running a 3.4L from an F-body...now THAT was an engine that was choked off!
1995 monte carlo 3.4 fuel injector swap to 4.3 and any other easy mods for more power?
If it's a TBI 4.3L V6 it will not work and if SFI it will not work they both use a different type of fuel injection.
1995 monte carlo 3.4 fuel injector swap to 4.3 and any other easy mods for more power?
Uh, no.
Short of running a blower on that engine, you aren't doing enough to outflow the stock injectors.
You aren't running a 3.4L from an F-body...now THAT was an engine that was choked off!
Fuel injector or computer box 2000 nissan altima?
I have a hard problem that i can't figure out. I changed all the fuel stuff from fuel pump to fuel filter. still doesn't start. then i checked the fuel pressure and it's a 45 psi which is good. sparks are good. but now i stumbled on the injectors not having power so it won't spray the gas into the engine. i checked fuse and wiring and everyting is good would that mean it's the computer ECU not sending the signal to the injectors to fire? please help
Fuel injector or computer box 2000 nissan altima?
Take a look at the cam and crank sensor. If you have a problem there, the computer doesn't know to pulse the injectors. If anything replace them both.best web host act around males
Fuel injector or computer box 2000 nissan altima?
Take a look at the cam and crank sensor. If you have a problem there, the computer doesn't know to pulse the injectors. If anything replace them both.
Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?
I was changing the oil on my 04 scion xa. And when I was putting the new oil in it without a funnel (never again) my aim was apparently off and some of the oil dripped onto the injectors. I tried to absorb as much as i could with a cloth but it was such a tight squeeze that i didnt absorb much. Afterwards i unscrewed the fuel rail to get better access to the oil that had spilled and it disconnected from the third injector and gas also started leaking all over the place so i then decided not to remove the rail. When i tried removing the rail the injectors also lifted up and oil probably went into the ports. I dont know if the fuel rail connected back with the injector. I did tighten both bolts on the fuel rail but now my car at idle makes a hissing sound on and off, that i suspect is coming from that injector. Should i stop driving it? Is oil in there harmful? I think the sounds coming from that injector? The car starts and drives fine. But at idle it has that whishing/hissing sound every couple of second or so. Any help is greatly appreciated. I dont know how something as simple as an oil change went so wrong. Many thanks in advance.
Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?
put a fuel system cleaner in with your next tank of fuel
once it has cleaned through, it should be fine, but you may notice a slight stuttering...it shouldn't be too harmful
Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?
i don't see any problem with oil on or a little of it in the injector, where it went bad was when you took of the fuel rail i would take it to the dealer and have them take a look just tell them it started hissing and you don't know why if tit is still under warranty.
Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?
put a fuel system cleaner in with your next tank of fuel
once it has cleaned through, it should be fine, but you may notice a slight stuttering...it shouldn't be too harmful
Can oil in the fuel injectors be harmful? Please help. Thank you.?
i don't see any problem with oil on or a little of it in the injector, where it went bad was when you took of the fuel rail i would take it to the dealer and have them take a look just tell them it started hissing and you don't know why if tit is still under warranty.
2003 Ford Crown Victoria P-71 bad fuel injectors?
Beside the LCM and multifunction switch troubles I have got another little problem: When I bought the car about 2 years ago I realized that the engine sometimes started to sputter at about 30 - 50 mph when you press gently on the accelerator within this speed range but his didn麓t happen very often. I also realized that the car engine doesn麓t run all round on sloping roads at 30 mph. This happens e.g. when you drive down a hill in the city without using the accelerator. But this was sometimes hard to sense. I tried to solve the problem by changing the spark plugs, the ignition coils and the fuel filter. It didn麓t help. No problems when you push the pedal to the metal or under/above this speed range. I kept on driving and ignored the problem. But after about 25.000 miles and during the last few weeks the problems have become bigger. The Ford sputters now much rougher within the described speed range and this happens very often. It seems that the idling is also slightly affected. Are these symptoms for bad fuel injectors? Your answers are really appreciated!!!
2003 Ford Crown Victoria P-71 bad fuel injectors?
It could be that moister or dirt is in the tank and perhaps the last owner drove it a lot with little gas in the tank that could cause problems. I'd try some Lucas gas treatment in it then after using up a few tanks of gas change the gas filter on it again.
I wonder what mileage is on that vehicle it might need the transmission filter and fluid changed on it especially if has around or over 75,000 miles on it.Also it could be a bad spark-plug wire you've not mentioned changing the wires , plus you've mentioned it runs a bit rough now a days when it idles,plus clean the connections where the spark-plug wires connect to ,I'd try that first off before changing or testing the wires , use sandpaper or a wire brush to clean them.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way it might help to go over the charging system's connections , the power junctions , battery , alternator , starter , engine block ground and all the grounds , plus any sensor etc plug in connections , one by one and make sure the studs , bolts , nuts, wire connectors are all quite clean too.Also check the grounds going to the different comps on it and the grounds that link the comps together.
2003 Ford Crown Victoria P-71 bad fuel injectors?
you never mentioned if you replaced the air filter or not. you may want to take a look at that and see how clogged it is. another thing to look at is possible vacuum leaks. these can cause problems like you have described. You may very likely need new injectors, or at the very least a professional cleaning of them. Something you may want to do and it is worth the money, have a drive-abilty test done on the car.basically the test works like this. The auto tech connected the computer to the car and places it in a record mode. they take the car for a 15 to 30 minute drive (Depending on road and freeway conditions) to collect the data. From there they analyze the information and can pin point the problem from that data. It's worth the money when your stumped and your not getting a trouble code. It normally runs about 45 dollars to have the test run. Call around to you repair shops as look for the best price. Also don't figure that because it's a dealer they are going to be more expensive. many dealers are often cheaper and faster at diagnostics then the independent shops. Hope this helps.
2003 Ford Crown Victoria P-71 bad fuel injectors?
It could be that moister or dirt is in the tank and perhaps the last owner drove it a lot with little gas in the tank that could cause problems. I'd try some Lucas gas treatment in it then after using up a few tanks of gas change the gas filter on it again.
I wonder what mileage is on that vehicle it might need the transmission filter and fluid changed on it especially if has around or over 75,000 miles on it.Also it could be a bad spark-plug wire you've not mentioned changing the wires , plus you've mentioned it runs a bit rough now a days when it idles,plus clean the connections where the spark-plug wires connect to ,I'd try that first off before changing or testing the wires , use sandpaper or a wire brush to clean them.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way it might help to go over the charging system's connections , the power junctions , battery , alternator , starter , engine block ground and all the grounds , plus any sensor etc plug in connections , one by one and make sure the studs , bolts , nuts, wire connectors are all quite clean too.Also check the grounds going to the different comps on it and the grounds that link the comps together.
2003 Ford Crown Victoria P-71 bad fuel injectors?
you never mentioned if you replaced the air filter or not. you may want to take a look at that and see how clogged it is. another thing to look at is possible vacuum leaks. these can cause problems like you have described. You may very likely need new injectors, or at the very least a professional cleaning of them. Something you may want to do and it is worth the money, have a drive-abilty test done on the car.basically the test works like this. The auto tech connected the computer to the car and places it in a record mode. they take the car for a 15 to 30 minute drive (Depending on road and freeway conditions) to collect the data. From there they analyze the information and can pin point the problem from that data. It's worth the money when your stumped and your not getting a trouble code. It normally runs about 45 dollars to have the test run. Call around to you repair shops as look for the best price. Also don't figure that because it's a dealer they are going to be more expensive. many dealers are often cheaper and faster at diagnostics then the independent shops. Hope this helps.
I have an 89 honda civic and I am not getting power to the fuel pump or injectors. Ideas?
I have already changed the main relay and checked the ECU. Has anyone else had this issue and if so what did you replace? Please be specific.
I have an 89 honda civic and I am not getting power to the fuel pump or injectors. Ideas?
Check the inertia cut-off switch.
There's a switch that's designed to cut off power to all fuel delivery systems in the case of an accident. I have personally been involved in two cars that had this problem.
I don't know where it is on a Honda, but on a Jaguar, it's on the passenger side beneath and to the right of the glove box.
All you have to do is flip the switch from off to on.
I have an 89 honda civic and I am not getting power to the fuel pump or injectors. Ideas?
Check/replace the fuses underneath your dashboard fusebox for the fuel pump fuse (15 amps) and under your hood fusebox for the fuel injector fuse (15 amps).
Good luck!
I have an 89 honda civic and I am not getting power to the fuel pump or injectors. Ideas?
Check the inertia cut-off switch.
There's a switch that's designed to cut off power to all fuel delivery systems in the case of an accident. I have personally been involved in two cars that had this problem.
I don't know where it is on a Honda, but on a Jaguar, it's on the passenger side beneath and to the right of the glove box.
All you have to do is flip the switch from off to on.
I have an 89 honda civic and I am not getting power to the fuel pump or injectors. Ideas?
Check/replace the fuses underneath your dashboard fusebox for the fuel pump fuse (15 amps) and under your hood fusebox for the fuel injector fuse (15 amps).
Good luck!
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Changed fuel pump/relay/filter/wires/plugs/鈥?on a '97 GMC .Could my injectors be the problem?
Is there anything else between the pump and the injectors,besides the filter that Im missing?
Changed fuel pump/relay/filter/wires/plugs/鈥?on a '97 GMC .Could my injectors be the problem?
Fuel pressure regulator located on the top of the eng block. Stop by your local Chevy / GMC dealership's service dpt and they should be glad to show you it exactly Also ask one of the mechanics or service rep what they think might be the problem
Changed fuel pump/relay/filter/wires/plugs/鈥?on a '97 GMC .Could my injectors be the problem?
might have a leak in the system.....do a PSI test to the system. From doing my Blazer a few years ago, don't quote me, but its like 32 psi in the line.
$50 and most GM dealers will do a check over of vehicle to tell you what the issues are if you prefer to do the work yourself but can't get past a stump.
also a Haynes manual from an auto parts store might lend a hand.
Give us the problematic symptoms(ie Whats wrong) Other areas could be the ECM, Temp Sensor for ECM, Throttle Position Sensor, O2 Sensor, MAP Sensor, MASS Sensor, All these provide info to the ECM witch controls the fuel delivery. Take it in and have the system checked by a tech with an ECM diagnostic unit.
Changed fuel pump/relay/filter/wires/plugs/鈥?on a '97 GMC .Could my injectors be the problem?
Fuel pressure regulator located on the top of the eng block. Stop by your local Chevy / GMC dealership's service dpt and they should be glad to show you it exactly Also ask one of the mechanics or service rep what they think might be the problem
Changed fuel pump/relay/filter/wires/plugs/鈥?on a '97 GMC .Could my injectors be the problem?
might have a leak in the system.....do a PSI test to the system. From doing my Blazer a few years ago, don't quote me, but its like 32 psi in the line.
$50 and most GM dealers will do a check over of vehicle to tell you what the issues are if you prefer to do the work yourself but can't get past a stump.
also a Haynes manual from an auto parts store might lend a hand.
Give us the problematic symptoms(ie Whats wrong) Other areas could be the ECM, Temp Sensor for ECM, Throttle Position Sensor, O2 Sensor, MAP Sensor, MASS Sensor, All these provide info to the ECM witch controls the fuel delivery. Take it in and have the system checked by a tech with an ECM diagnostic unit.
Is it hard to change the timing on a fuel injector?
i have a 1992 ford f350 7.3 litter diesel and ive had the fuel pump,fuel lines, alternater,batteries,fuel fillter and glow plugs changed and it still wont start but only in the mornings. After its started it will run fine the rest of the day and my buddy told me the fuel injector timing was off and i was wondering if that could be it or not,and if so how hard it is to change it
Is it hard to change the timing on a fuel injector?
I'm not aware of any way to modify the injector timing - this comes from your computer. While there are some devices that can modify the way your computer responds, the injector pulse width is normally driven by values in a table based on the performance desired and known variables relating to your engine and the vehicle specs.
I didn't see pressure regulator mentioned in your lengthy list of repairs? Have you verified the fuel rail pressure? I would place injector timing at the bottom of my list of probable issues. (Unless there's a TSB for this.)
Is it hard to change the timing on a fuel injector?
You might want to see if the fuel lines are placed correctly. That can cause your mornings hard starts.
The timing should only be done by your local fuel shop.hair dryer computer eye strain
Is it hard to change the timing on a fuel injector?
I'm not aware of any way to modify the injector timing - this comes from your computer. While there are some devices that can modify the way your computer responds, the injector pulse width is normally driven by values in a table based on the performance desired and known variables relating to your engine and the vehicle specs.
I didn't see pressure regulator mentioned in your lengthy list of repairs? Have you verified the fuel rail pressure? I would place injector timing at the bottom of my list of probable issues. (Unless there's a TSB for this.)
Is it hard to change the timing on a fuel injector?
You might want to see if the fuel lines are placed correctly. That can cause your mornings hard starts.
The timing should only be done by your local fuel shop.
1996 chrysler lhs changed tranny now engine crank over no start fuel to fuel rail fire to coil and injectors?
no spark from wires
1996 chrysler lhs changed tranny now engine crank over no start fuel to fuel rail fire to coil and injectors?
Crank Sensor either unplugged, damaged, or incorrect air gap. Good luck!
1996 chrysler lhs changed tranny now engine crank over no start fuel to fuel rail fire to coil and injectors?
Might be related to a switch not being aligned up right bec the gear shifter can kill starts , also could be a connector or wire being faulty or a sensor unplugged or damaged.
I'd also be checking the timing on it and making sure that the fuel pressure was correct , the gas filter changed, plus I'd want to know if you're getting the right amount of air flow,if the plugs are all good and wires.Keep in mind that even if a spark looks strong enough it might not be so be sure you clean all the plug in connections and connectors on the ignition module , plus check the wiring very closely , and look at the housing of the ignition coil check for cracks , bulges, discolouring etc.
Even the engine might sound like it's turning over fast enough but in fact isn't so check the battery , starter, engine block ground post , alternator and clean them one by one and test.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way from all my experience if any vehicle is a 96 and hasn't had the charging system fully checked or cleaned I'd for sure be doing so bec most starting issues on that age of a vehicle are related to rust , corrosion and battery post wires that are internally rotted or corroded, plus fowl fuel or dirty gas systems or dirty tanks.Also most problems in the electrical is bad connections or especially bad grounds so make sure their quite clean or replace them.
check wiring for pinched wires at the bell housing also check the flex plate that is where the crank sensor gets its signal if it is bent will prob. not start. i always go by if it worked before you moved something go back and check it over.
you need a speed sensor this sensor makes the computer go crazy when it goes out
1996 chrysler lhs changed tranny now engine crank over no start fuel to fuel rail fire to coil and injectors?
Crank Sensor either unplugged, damaged, or incorrect air gap. Good luck!
1996 chrysler lhs changed tranny now engine crank over no start fuel to fuel rail fire to coil and injectors?
Might be related to a switch not being aligned up right bec the gear shifter can kill starts , also could be a connector or wire being faulty or a sensor unplugged or damaged.
I'd also be checking the timing on it and making sure that the fuel pressure was correct , the gas filter changed, plus I'd want to know if you're getting the right amount of air flow,if the plugs are all good and wires.Keep in mind that even if a spark looks strong enough it might not be so be sure you clean all the plug in connections and connectors on the ignition module , plus check the wiring very closely , and look at the housing of the ignition coil check for cracks , bulges, discolouring etc.
Even the engine might sound like it's turning over fast enough but in fact isn't so check the battery , starter, engine block ground post , alternator and clean them one by one and test.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way from all my experience if any vehicle is a 96 and hasn't had the charging system fully checked or cleaned I'd for sure be doing so bec most starting issues on that age of a vehicle are related to rust , corrosion and battery post wires that are internally rotted or corroded, plus fowl fuel or dirty gas systems or dirty tanks.Also most problems in the electrical is bad connections or especially bad grounds so make sure their quite clean or replace them.
check wiring for pinched wires at the bell housing also check the flex plate that is where the crank sensor gets its signal if it is bent will prob. not start. i always go by if it worked before you moved something go back and check it over.
you need a speed sensor this sensor makes the computer go crazy when it goes out
1996 chevrolet corsica L4... how to change fuel injector?
leaking injector. books say simply pry out but diagram is different
1996 chevrolet corsica L4... how to change fuel injector?
try to find a online diagram
there are many vehicles with injectors and as many differrrent types.
1996 chevrolet corsica L4... how to change fuel injector?
try to find a online diagram
there are many vehicles with injectors and as many differrrent types.
What causes a car to jerk forward & backward, other than fuel filter?
The car is a 95 Ford Escort, manual transmission. The jerking is somewhat variable in onset, but very noticeable both while driving at a constant speed (around 30 mph and at other speeds not just in 3rd gear) and accelerating uphill. The car also gets somewhat poor gas mileage (30 when it should be 35+), has a hard time accelerating uphill, and I can occasionally smell a small amount of gas. There is NO check engine light.
What I've done (don't laugh):
-checked the air filter was clean
-changed the fuel filter
-new spark plugs
-spark plug cables are fine
-cleaned MAF sensor
-cleaned throttle body intake
-ran a couple cups of fuel injector cleaner
I'm not really sure what the problem is at this point, possibilities include transmission (?), O2 sensor, timing belt, random other sensor, or worse? I can add details as necessary.
Thank you!
What causes a car to jerk forward %26amp; backward, other than fuel filter?
Doesn't sound like a trans problem to me I guess it could be possible, but clutch slip is usually not intermmitant especially if it cable operated, and an automatic would be much more likely to cause a buck or surge. It sound to me like a miss. Are all plugs gapped correctly? Are you sure cables are fine or do they just look okay? Pay attention to the specific RPM range the problem occurs at and the engine load? See if you can get it to happen at the same approximate RPM in different gears. If it does then it's most likely a spark problem? may also be a coil prob, or slipping timing belt. Good luck P.S. you should never smell gas, get that checked out!
What causes a car to jerk forward %26amp; backward, other than fuel filter?
transmission. take it to aamco.
Check fuel pump pressure...
Some of the jerkiness under acceleration can be caused by a slipping clutch plate.
Edited post:
I've had another thought. I had a car once which had a damaged brake caliper. When the brakes would heat up, the piston would jam and drag on the rotor. What did this feel like? General sluggish performance, sudden intermittent jerkiness, reduced gas mileage, serious heat buildup in the wheel assembly, and a constantly frying clutch plate. The car burnt up 2 clutch plates before we found the real problem.
It would be a long shot, but your description reminded me of this.
i would check the compression on all cylinders. if they are all around the same reading then you may have a bigger problem some where else. start their.
The transmission is slipping between gears. In addition to that the accelerator is worn the hell out. Go to Aamco and they'll find out what else is wrong in their free vehicle diagnostic and get it fixed at a reasonable price.
What I've done (don't laugh):
-checked the air filter was clean
-changed the fuel filter
-new spark plugs
-spark plug cables are fine
-cleaned MAF sensor
-cleaned throttle body intake
-ran a couple cups of fuel injector cleaner
I'm not really sure what the problem is at this point, possibilities include transmission (?), O2 sensor, timing belt, random other sensor, or worse? I can add details as necessary.
Thank you!
What causes a car to jerk forward %26amp; backward, other than fuel filter?
Doesn't sound like a trans problem to me I guess it could be possible, but clutch slip is usually not intermmitant especially if it cable operated, and an automatic would be much more likely to cause a buck or surge. It sound to me like a miss. Are all plugs gapped correctly? Are you sure cables are fine or do they just look okay? Pay attention to the specific RPM range the problem occurs at and the engine load? See if you can get it to happen at the same approximate RPM in different gears. If it does then it's most likely a spark problem? may also be a coil prob, or slipping timing belt. Good luck P.S. you should never smell gas, get that checked out!
What causes a car to jerk forward %26amp; backward, other than fuel filter?
transmission. take it to aamco.
Check fuel pump pressure...
Some of the jerkiness under acceleration can be caused by a slipping clutch plate.
Edited post:
I've had another thought. I had a car once which had a damaged brake caliper. When the brakes would heat up, the piston would jam and drag on the rotor. What did this feel like? General sluggish performance, sudden intermittent jerkiness, reduced gas mileage, serious heat buildup in the wheel assembly, and a constantly frying clutch plate. The car burnt up 2 clutch plates before we found the real problem.
It would be a long shot, but your description reminded me of this.
i would check the compression on all cylinders. if they are all around the same reading then you may have a bigger problem some where else. start their.
The transmission is slipping between gears. In addition to that the accelerator is worn the hell out. Go to Aamco and they'll find out what else is wrong in their free vehicle diagnostic and get it fixed at a reasonable price.
Where is the fuel relay on a 92 geo tracker?
i have changed the fuel filter, air filter, pcv, fuel injector, spark plugs and wires, and this thing still won't start. fuel gets to the injector but it will not spray.
Where is the fuel relay on a 92 geo tracker?
go to your parts store, %26amp; get {or at least look at} a Chilton manual for your car. It has pix, and detailed descriptions %26amp; instructions
Where is the fuel relay on a 92 geo tracker?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;鈥?/a>
Try looking for it around the engine, it will ether be located on the top or the bottom, it may also be located near the gas tank
Where is the fuel relay on a 92 geo tracker?
go to your parts store, %26amp; get {or at least look at} a Chilton manual for your car. It has pix, and detailed descriptions %26amp; instructions
Where is the fuel relay on a 92 geo tracker?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;鈥?/a>
Try looking for it around the engine, it will ether be located on the top or the bottom, it may also be located near the gas tank
How do I know when it is time to change my fuel filter?
I recently purchased a 98 ford windstar. sometimes when I start it up it idles really rough and occasionally dies. when I am stopped (in gear) and I give it a little gas, the tackometer goes up, and then down under 500 rpms and the oil light flickers. it runs fine once I get moving, it's just when I am stopped or going really slow. I was going to put fuel injector cleaner in, but I figured I would check the fule filter too. is there any way to tell if it needs to be replaced?
How do I know when it is time to change my fuel filter?
i would give this baby a complette tune up air filter pcv valve a gas filter plugs and wires and cap and then you know what you got going on under the hood . plus your transmission might need flushed unless you have a record of the last flush .
How do I know when it is time to change my fuel filter?
Since you don't know the mileage on the fuel filter a good gauge is power under load. If you are accelerating and it misses or does not have power that is usually the fuel filter. Because the engine is starving for gas. What you are describing is not fuel filter.
but a filter doesnt cost much.. so do it if you think it needs it. I agree with the guy above/below idk.. eather way
Check the maintenance record on your Windstar. If it still has the original fuel filter on it then have it replaced. If you do replace it, DO NOT use fuel injector cleaner on it until you've had a chance to run a full tank of gas through that filter -- injector cleaner can damage brand new fuel filters. From personal experience I can tell you that I follow my father's advice and have had my fuel filter replaced in every vehicle I've driven every 50,000 miles and have never had a problem. Some people may say that's overkill, but it's not that expensive to change out a fuel filter and a clogged fuel filter can leave you stranded on the side of the road somewhere, so why take the chance?
Good answer LesterM
try and put a new air filter in it it may surprise you
the car is 9 years old..I am amazed at the number never tuned in 100,000 miles..How are the plugs? wires? air cleaner? Look at those firsttop 10 myspace sexy hair
How do I know when it is time to change my fuel filter?
i would give this baby a complette tune up air filter pcv valve a gas filter plugs and wires and cap and then you know what you got going on under the hood . plus your transmission might need flushed unless you have a record of the last flush .
How do I know when it is time to change my fuel filter?
Since you don't know the mileage on the fuel filter a good gauge is power under load. If you are accelerating and it misses or does not have power that is usually the fuel filter. Because the engine is starving for gas. What you are describing is not fuel filter.
but a filter doesnt cost much.. so do it if you think it needs it. I agree with the guy above/below idk.. eather way
Check the maintenance record on your Windstar. If it still has the original fuel filter on it then have it replaced. If you do replace it, DO NOT use fuel injector cleaner on it until you've had a chance to run a full tank of gas through that filter -- injector cleaner can damage brand new fuel filters. From personal experience I can tell you that I follow my father's advice and have had my fuel filter replaced in every vehicle I've driven every 50,000 miles and have never had a problem. Some people may say that's overkill, but it's not that expensive to change out a fuel filter and a clogged fuel filter can leave you stranded on the side of the road somewhere, so why take the chance?
Good answer LesterM
try and put a new air filter in it it may surprise you
the car is 9 years old..I am amazed at the number never tuned in 100,000 miles..How are the plugs? wires? air cleaner? Look at those first
Renault scenic. (wrong fuel)?
we have a renault scenice 54plate.rac called yest as would not start.technician said he believes it is the fuel injector,can a faulty fuel injector stop your car from starting?
car has been towed to renault today and they are trying to say we have put petrol in a diesel car!!! every reciept we have found for fuel has stated diesel.we have been driving the car all week with no problem then all of a sudden would not start!! would putting the wrong fuel in the car be responsible for the injectors? the car is under warrenty and obviously seeing as weve supposidly put the %26quot;wrong fuel%26quot; it is now not covered for the injectors! i have had a mechanic tell me the injector was faulty not long ago.feel really angry at renault and dont believe for one min it is the fuel.would changing the injector first start the car?
any help with this matter! thanks in advance
Renault scenic. (wrong fuel)?
Because your scenic is a common rail diesel, if one injector fails then the engine will not start. The faulty injector leaks fuel and causes a drop in fuel pressure, so because all the injectors are fed from the same rail a lack of pressure will effect all the cylinders.
A diesel engine will go quite along distance on petrol, and people who use illegal red diesel, will occasionally run their cars on petrol to wash the red dye out of the fuel pipes !
The problem is because petrol has different combustion properties to diesel, it will burn the injector nozzles away or wash the lubrication from the cylinder bores and damage the engine internally.
If the injector is faulty, then replacing it should solve the starting problem.
It is unfortunate but the dealer does have an obligation to inform renault warranty you have run the car on diesel, and this will invalidate the warranty on the entire injection system. Not all dealers adhere to this requirement as no one ever puts petrol in on purpose, its just a fact that accidents happen.
The are some dealer that would lie just to make some money out of you. So the best thing to do is get the fuel tested.
Renault scenic. (wrong fuel)?
its very common for garages to claim that customers have put petrol in Diesel vehicels.
if the injectors are faulty, clogged or damaged then its quite likely they could stop the engine working. the injectors atomise the fuel so it will ignite. if there is a fault on that subsyetem then the engine will not work. it could be there is insufficent pressure in the fuel system or the injectors are damaged. damage may be that the injector nozzles are too big it may not atomize the fuel adequately.
however it would be difficult to prove that you had put petrol in the tank, get the garage to prove their assertion
however one thing that could be casuing problems is the change in compostion of Diesel (and petrol for that matter), the increase use of biodiesel and ethanol can cause problems with fuel injector systems.
but thats going to be a toughie to prove, and if it is porves is that the cr makers fault or the fuel makers fault, or the polticiains who imposed the changes in the first place.
If you had one injector not working the car would still fire on 3, but it would run rough. If you have all the receipt's saying you have put the right fuel in it then you could ask the RAC to help. I know with the AA if you have problems with a garage their legal department will help out. You could try trading standards.
Good luck
contact rac customer care and explain the situation they will contact the patrol and ask if the fuel was checked and if he believes it was wrongly fueled also ask the dealer too have a sample of the fuel taken from the car too prove its contaminated fuel and phone renault uk too have a warrenty engineer too inspect the car and fuel if you have a warrenty did you recently purchase the car then it may have been wrongly fuelled by previous owner or by the dealer who sold it to you have seen many salesmen put 拢5 of petrol in by mistake
If you have %26quot;common rail injection%26quot; then one faulty injector WILL cause a breakdown.
car has been towed to renault today and they are trying to say we have put petrol in a diesel car!!! every reciept we have found for fuel has stated diesel.we have been driving the car all week with no problem then all of a sudden would not start!! would putting the wrong fuel in the car be responsible for the injectors? the car is under warrenty and obviously seeing as weve supposidly put the %26quot;wrong fuel%26quot; it is now not covered for the injectors! i have had a mechanic tell me the injector was faulty not long ago.feel really angry at renault and dont believe for one min it is the fuel.would changing the injector first start the car?
any help with this matter! thanks in advance
Renault scenic. (wrong fuel)?
Because your scenic is a common rail diesel, if one injector fails then the engine will not start. The faulty injector leaks fuel and causes a drop in fuel pressure, so because all the injectors are fed from the same rail a lack of pressure will effect all the cylinders.
A diesel engine will go quite along distance on petrol, and people who use illegal red diesel, will occasionally run their cars on petrol to wash the red dye out of the fuel pipes !
The problem is because petrol has different combustion properties to diesel, it will burn the injector nozzles away or wash the lubrication from the cylinder bores and damage the engine internally.
If the injector is faulty, then replacing it should solve the starting problem.
It is unfortunate but the dealer does have an obligation to inform renault warranty you have run the car on diesel, and this will invalidate the warranty on the entire injection system. Not all dealers adhere to this requirement as no one ever puts petrol in on purpose, its just a fact that accidents happen.
The are some dealer that would lie just to make some money out of you. So the best thing to do is get the fuel tested.
Renault scenic. (wrong fuel)?
its very common for garages to claim that customers have put petrol in Diesel vehicels.
if the injectors are faulty, clogged or damaged then its quite likely they could stop the engine working. the injectors atomise the fuel so it will ignite. if there is a fault on that subsyetem then the engine will not work. it could be there is insufficent pressure in the fuel system or the injectors are damaged. damage may be that the injector nozzles are too big it may not atomize the fuel adequately.
however it would be difficult to prove that you had put petrol in the tank, get the garage to prove their assertion
however one thing that could be casuing problems is the change in compostion of Diesel (and petrol for that matter), the increase use of biodiesel and ethanol can cause problems with fuel injector systems.
but thats going to be a toughie to prove, and if it is porves is that the cr makers fault or the fuel makers fault, or the polticiains who imposed the changes in the first place.
If you had one injector not working the car would still fire on 3, but it would run rough. If you have all the receipt's saying you have put the right fuel in it then you could ask the RAC to help. I know with the AA if you have problems with a garage their legal department will help out. You could try trading standards.
Good luck
contact rac customer care and explain the situation they will contact the patrol and ask if the fuel was checked and if he believes it was wrongly fueled also ask the dealer too have a sample of the fuel taken from the car too prove its contaminated fuel and phone renault uk too have a warrenty engineer too inspect the car and fuel if you have a warrenty did you recently purchase the car then it may have been wrongly fuelled by previous owner or by the dealer who sold it to you have seen many salesmen put 拢5 of petrol in by mistake
If you have %26quot;common rail injection%26quot; then one faulty injector WILL cause a breakdown.
How to change fuel injector 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo?
Hi guys,
Well my car started shaking and it felt like it was going to stall but it didnt.. I brought it to a mechanic and he said that its my #1 fuel injector need to be replaced and hes charging me $320 for Parts and Labor..Im wondering if thers any Free link or anything that tells u %26quot;How To%26quot; or DIY meaning Do it yourself? or anything that shows where the injector location? I already bought the part that i needed just need to install it and im not planning to spend that much just to fix 1 small thing.. Ive asked around and they said its easy so pls can anyone help
thanks for all the help guys
How to change fuel injector 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo?
First your going to need to crawl under that jeep while its running and disconnect the fuel pump, need to do this to minimize the possibility
of a fuel fire.
next you are going to remove the 13mm bolts holding the fuel rail,
Do not remove the fuel rail! What your going to do is raise up the rail, just enough to pull the #1 injector from the rail (should only need to raise about 1 inch from injector housing/hole) then remove the old Injector.
Now liberally lube (petroleum jelly) the Injector seal and snap it back into the fuel rail, then push rail down to seat injector into the intake, bolt down the rail, then re-plug your fuel pump, turn your Ign.. key to the %26quot;run%26quot; position for 10 seconds (wait 30 seconds between cycles) at least twice, this will pressurize the rail. Check for any leaks(do not start yet). OK now its time to start, check for leaks again, if no leaks re-torque rail and go.
Hope this helps
Well my car started shaking and it felt like it was going to stall but it didnt.. I brought it to a mechanic and he said that its my #1 fuel injector need to be replaced and hes charging me $320 for Parts and Labor..Im wondering if thers any Free link or anything that tells u %26quot;How To%26quot; or DIY meaning Do it yourself? or anything that shows where the injector location? I already bought the part that i needed just need to install it and im not planning to spend that much just to fix 1 small thing.. Ive asked around and they said its easy so pls can anyone help
thanks for all the help guys
How to change fuel injector 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo?
First your going to need to crawl under that jeep while its running and disconnect the fuel pump, need to do this to minimize the possibility
of a fuel fire.
next you are going to remove the 13mm bolts holding the fuel rail,
Do not remove the fuel rail! What your going to do is raise up the rail, just enough to pull the #1 injector from the rail (should only need to raise about 1 inch from injector housing/hole) then remove the old Injector.
Now liberally lube (petroleum jelly) the Injector seal and snap it back into the fuel rail, then push rail down to seat injector into the intake, bolt down the rail, then re-plug your fuel pump, turn your Ign.. key to the %26quot;run%26quot; position for 10 seconds (wait 30 seconds between cycles) at least twice, this will pressurize the rail. Check for any leaks(do not start yet). OK now its time to start, check for leaks again, if no leaks re-torque rail and go.
Hope this helps
Where are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?
i still have a misfire on cylinder 3 after i changed the spark plugs and wires someone has told me it might be one of the fuel injectors will pouring fuel injector cleaner in the tank solve the problem
Where are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?
Injector cleaner won't fix any problem. If you unplug an injector %26amp; she still runs the same, test or replace that injector. Or to save some $ , swap 2 %26amp; see what happens.
Where are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?
in the fuel rail. it runs down each side of the engine. usually on the top side next to valve covers.
no it will not help check and see if the plug wire on #3 is on tight that will cause a misfire.
its in the fuel rail on that one ,i own a 95 s-10 and its the same thing you got basically ,all newer ones are on the fuel rail,in 95 they also made a vortec engine with a throttle body injection unit on it,i got one of those and it has the injectors in the throttle body,i thought i would add this because there was two different types of vortec engines used in those,good luck.
The Vortec engine uses injectors connected to a fuel %26quot;spider%26quot; beneath the intake plenum. They are notorious for failure and drivability problems.
This isn't something that the average do-it-yourselfer is going to be able to repair himself. I recommend that you locate a shop in town that specializes in fuel injection or take it to a shop that specializes in GM or the dealer.
on the engine
Where are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?
Injector cleaner won't fix any problem. If you unplug an injector %26amp; she still runs the same, test or replace that injector. Or to save some $ , swap 2 %26amp; see what happens.
Where are the fuel injectors located on a 1995 4.3 vortec engine?
in the fuel rail. it runs down each side of the engine. usually on the top side next to valve covers.
no it will not help check and see if the plug wire on #3 is on tight that will cause a misfire.
its in the fuel rail on that one ,i own a 95 s-10 and its the same thing you got basically ,all newer ones are on the fuel rail,in 95 they also made a vortec engine with a throttle body injection unit on it,i got one of those and it has the injectors in the throttle body,i thought i would add this because there was two different types of vortec engines used in those,good luck.
The Vortec engine uses injectors connected to a fuel %26quot;spider%26quot; beneath the intake plenum. They are notorious for failure and drivability problems.
This isn't something that the average do-it-yourselfer is going to be able to repair himself. I recommend that you locate a shop in town that specializes in fuel injection or take it to a shop that specializes in GM or the dealer.
on the engine
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